Cab mount question
#14
And weld nuts, i was looking at those, but they all look so weak to me, does not look like it would be any different than welding a grade 8.
#15
Yeah just get a good tall nut with lots of threads for your bolt to grip and do quick spot welds with breaks in between allowing the weld to cool and not build up a ton of heat and you will be gooder dan grits!!
#16
Grade 5 bolt can be welded. Where did the 'some say you can' get their info from. Certainly wasnt the AWS manual or machinerys handbook. I guess if a crack is considered loosing strength then yeah its weaker . I realise that many here are from the farm implement crowd and dont know any better. But now YOU know.
Last edited by LeWhite; 10-01-2013 at 10:12 PM.
#17
You are right, I am from a farm, I have a huge 100 acre farm in the middle of minneapolis LOL!
But thanks for all the help guys, knowing grade 5 can be welded safely, I will be getting some of those. What ever works
now a quick question, what would be the best way to keep the nut lined up and straight. I have read that using the bolt to keep it in place and straight could cause problems with the expanding and shrinking and screw up the threads.
I have read that people have whittled down a piece of wood to thread the nut on, then it stops the splatter from getting on the threads, and then there would be no problem messing up the threads.
But thanks for all the help guys, knowing grade 5 can be welded safely, I will be getting some of those. What ever works
now a quick question, what would be the best way to keep the nut lined up and straight. I have read that using the bolt to keep it in place and straight could cause problems with the expanding and shrinking and screw up the threads.
I have read that people have whittled down a piece of wood to thread the nut on, then it stops the splatter from getting on the threads, and then there would be no problem messing up the threads.
#18
Grade 5 bolt can be welded. Where did the 'some say you can' get their info from. Certainly wasnt the AWS manual or machinerys handbook. I guess if a crack is considered loosing strength then yeah its weaker . I realise that many here are from the farm implement crowd and dont know any better. But now YOU know.
Again in most cases it is considered unacceptable to weld to "hardened" hardware but if your not in the industry world and use a few simple steps to ensure things are done properly a few tack welds on a grade 8 nut to hold it in place to tighten a body mount aren't going to hurt anything.
As for holding it in place for welding if you can put a bolt thru the hole with some washers on the back side to keep everything lined up you should be good to go. Just tighten the bolt but don't over tighten and make quick tack welds while letting it cool between welds. What you have read about messing up the threads is/can be correct but again if you do things correctly you will be ok. You can use a wet rag or compressed air to help speed the cooling process but be sure to get any water off dried before making the next weld. I'm sure someone will disagree with this as well but its worked just fine for me countless times so I'm not going to stop doing it!
#19
Not trying to flame anyone. Just trying to raise the intelect of our blazer community. You must know there is a difference between a tractor wheel coming off and planes falling out of the sky. Hope the cab stays fastened to the chassis wether tractor or blown fuel hydro. I just dont want any mistakes qualified by "I didnt know any better"