Hi,

Anyone make full paint for his 97-04 Jimmy or Blazer before ?
Because I want o know how many liters of Base-coat(paint),Primer and Clear-coat I need.

thank you

 

I think I used about 4-6 cans of spray paint on the bottom portion if that'll help give an idea lol... I can see if I can get the size of the cans I used if itll help

 

Restauration project so this is the overkill version with primer, basecoat, clearcoat, where base- and clearcoat are having two layers at least all around.

Color:
Got 13 liters (about 3 1/2 gallons) of paint for my Alfa Romeo Coupe. Inside and out, underbelly and everything. To keep things simple ordered it in one batch, so it won't matter when changing cans.
Re-ordered 3 liters (bit less than 1 gallon) more of the blue color for spot repair and a bicycle frame for my girlfriend - LOL. Complete Inside including firewall, inside, ceiling, trunk, engine bay, wheel wells and full underside used about 7 liters (2 gallons) for two applications wet-in-wet. We are going to use about 7 liters (2 gallons) set aside for the finish in order to use the same batch of production. Doors, hood, trunk lid are done, as well as the full interior and undersides.

Primer/Filler:
About 15 liters (about 4 gallons) of Black primer for a minimum of two coatings. Inside and under the belly just one coating, outside for sanding 2 1/2 applications as primer and filler.

Clear:
11 liters (about 2 1/2 gallons) of clear-coat for a minimum of two applications wet-in-wet. May need a bit more.

That's all two-component from the same series of products which work together according to the manufacturers recommendations.

 

Thanks for the information guys but my problem is all the clear coat peeling off and it continue .


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ah, I see. Usual problem. The clearcoat will continue to come off even when you coat over.

Could do what you would do when you have a body repair to do, just on the whole car.
Sand, then repaint with one coat of original color, then clearcoat again. expensive thou. Lot's of work

 

Maybe christine will see this, she did a repair on her clear coat and it seemed to come out descent...

I think she just wet sanded with a 2000-4000 grit, then lightly used a clear coat until blended in. But dont quote me lol.

 

When I go to paint body shop they ask me the cost will be 663 USD for full paint and the brand of paint is unknown and my second choice is buying (paint,clear coat,primer....etc) from PPG Company and paint it myself this will cost me 318.29 USD I don't know what choice will be better .

My question for error_401 can I do like what you say or it will peel off again ?


Oh DonL my Jimmy is also CANADA import.

Thanks for all

 

The problem is the layers of color and which ones are good and which are not.

Clearcoat - comes off the underlying paint
Paint - seems to hold up as it is only the clearcoat peeling
Primer - seems to hold up as it is only the topmost coat peeling
Metal - Is the base of the whole painting

This is a typical layering of paint on a car or truck.

If the clearcoat is coming off, it means that for one reason or another, it will no longer bond to the paint. This phenomenon is known in areas with heat and a lot of sun. Must be the type of paint they used in the factory. Problem became a major issue with the water based paints.

You can just clearcoat over. Cheapest fix and will hold for... guess what - I'm not answering this one. Can be another couple of years, can be one week and it peels again.

The weak bond is between color and clearcoat. Yes you can sand all loose clearcoat down, trying to remove as much as possible by kind of peeling it off. Then sand the surface of the color and finally apply a new layer of clearcoat on top. It may bond properly with the color but everywhere you still have old clearcoat and the delamination process will continue and eventually it will come off again.

A proper fix would be to remove the clearcoat and sand down to the color. Mind you - we are talking microns of thickness. You will cut through the color into the primer for sure and that will need repair. As it does come off everywhere, it will need to be sanded everywhere.
Now you could apply another layer of the color (think repair of where you cut through the color) and then clearcoat again. This should hold up as good as any body repair properly made would.

Now it comes down to time, and how nicely it should be made. A really nice paintjob would be by removing all the trim, seals, lights, etc. to paint without covering over, i.e. window seals. The advantage is also to get rid of the old clearcoat.

What would I do?
Nothing. Just peel off whatever clearcoat decides to leave the bond with the color and go on driving it.
Why?
The color is exposed and will wear with time. It will need to be painted over in any case, so I would ride it for more years and kind of wait for the clearcoat to be gone. Then, if I would still want to keep the Blazer, take it apart and do a proper job sanding all of the clearcoat down, re-paint and re-clearcoat the whole truck. On the hood I would sand a bit of the clearcoat away and just touch part of the color, then paint over with color and clearcoat the patch. This would be the test to see if the new paint reacts with the old paint and what the clearcoat does on the old clearcoat and the old paint.

And these are the pro-answers from me and my paintshop as we had a Porsche 928 with the same problem.

Also discussed the option of sanding it to make the boundary go away where the clearcoat peels and wrap the car.

Hope I did not confuse you.

 

Ok, so can I sand the clear coat down to the paint then I spray paint over the original paint or it will peel off again?

thank you

 

Well,

I have discussed this exact issue with my paintshop once over a Porsche 928S.
He said, yes, you could sand down to the color and re-apply the clearcoat but, it remains an experiment because you don't know how well the color itself is. But yes, could work. No guarantee on how long it will hold up.

Awful lot of work and by sanding it down to the color you definitively risk cutting through the color down to the filler. Then you have to repaint first and then clearcoat over. All a question of labor and money.

Cheapest
Just remove loose flaking and sand edges as Christine did. Then clearcoat over as you would with any patch repair.
Plus: cheap, short time, not bothering with removing stuff and joints. Can be done to any other location in the future.
Minus: edges may be visible, may peel again at edges or new spots. Looks different from remainder of car. (Could be reduced by polishing whole Blazer.)

More expensive
Remove loose flaking and sand edges, then sand over the whole car. Mask and wrap or remove according to your quality standards. Covering may leave small ridges along the masking tape. Done all the time in paintshops. This is normal repair practice.
Plus: Medium priced operation. Halfway reasonable workload. Car looks the same all over.
Minus: Don't know how the existing clearcoat is reacting and if it will continue to peel below the new layer.