Wife backed into the outside wood on a raised garden this afternoon. Interested in painting over this and trying to make it stick so car wash won't rub it off so easy. I can lay down a nice rattle can layer of paint, but unsure about prep or the type of paint. I'm a bodywork amateur.

We have an auto paint store that can do the paint matching via optical scan and then put into rattle can. I have done that before to match the custom paint on my S10 and do a little spot repair. But what type of paint to use here? Isn't this special flexible paint on the plastic? Is this a clear coat (probably not on the plastic)? This is the deep red metallic paint on a 2001 LT. How to prep? ETC?

I just want a quick inexpensive fix, but only if it's going to stay for a while. Gotta keep her happy driving a 2001 for a couple more years. SUVs are expensive.

Please advise.

 

Mine has held onto my plastic trims and body for over a year now, doesnt show any wear or tear. All I did was a sand about 80-120 grit, alcohol clean, rustoleum primer, then paint. I put about 4 layers of color, then I sanded smooth with I think a 2000 grit, and gave another 3 layers of color. I noticed with the body match, it would take about that if not a couple more layers, with a wet sand/polish of a higher grit and clear coat.

this is all I do in my driveway. I have no body experience other then what I've seen on tv or YouTube lol.

 

DonL's system should work. Automotive paint is incredible. I've been amazed on how elastic it still is even after years. Even around dents it will not crack if the dent is not too deep or creates a crease.

It also looks like the primer is still on the bumper. That is the really important stuff to make the paint adhere to the plastic. Apart from that try not to sand through the remaining layer of primer and the way DonL does it should work.

I've done the exact same on my ex's MAZDA plastic spoiler. Held for over 3 years before she sold the car.

 

Thanks guys!

 

No problem, let us know how it goes if you do it yourself. Just remember, every expertise started somewhere...

 

my truck has a similar predicament with the rear endcaps having been gouged in some places and scraped badly in others, will definitely try that method (after bondo).

 

Oh, BTW, Les, you may want to have a look at the post's title. I had a good laugh.

 

It's been a long time since I've painted any cars (and I was no expert at it then) but there used to be an additive for paint, specifically for flexible panels like bumpers. It would keep it from cracking. Paint formulations have changed drastically since the old days, though, so I don't know if such a thing still exists.

My experience has been that the people who work at auto body supply stores are usually very knowledgeable and can help you pick out the right products for your particular job.

 

Probably you're right. They would be able to advise me. I'm just too used to the dumbasses at my local Auto Zone. I forgot about professionals who sell to professionals.

 

Finally got it done.

Went to the autobody store with my paint code and the guy seemed to be trying to discourage me from trying so I told him it looked like he didn't want to sell anything to me and walked out.

Stopped by Autozone on the way home and hit the Duplicolor stand. Found a couple cans of color that was close to the correct one. Picked up adhesion promoter and clear coat. Total about $50.

Took the bumper extension off the vehicle. Degreased with mineral spirits. Washed with soap and water. Scuffed with 220 and sanded down edges of scrapes where paint came off. Washed with soap and water again. 2 coats of clear Rustoleum Adhesion Promoter followed by 5 coats of "almost the right shade" metallic Duplicolor laquer - 10 minutes between all coats. Waited 30 min - then 3 coats of Duplicolor clear coat 10 minutes apart. I'm pretty happy with it. The off-shade color doesn't really stick out much where it is at. Now, as long as it doesn't chip or peel............