Poor Man's Painting
#11
RE: Poor Man's Painting
this is good info wolfpack and pinitis. Thank you very much, will get pics tommorow when daylight.
#12
RE: Poor Man's Painting
http://curs3.net/images/blazer/
Dont mind the first one, thats seafoam.
As you can see, just about every edge and weather stripping its peeling.
Dont mind the first one, thats seafoam.
As you can see, just about every edge and weather stripping its peeling.
#13
RE: Poor Man's Painting
That's how my pontiac was. Used a steel wire stripping brush hooked up to a HD power drill and just ground out all the edges and around all the weather stripping and flashing. I think you should do it
#14
RE: Poor Man's Painting
Take a look at this:
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...art=1&vc=1
its a couple posts down...now if youve got time, and patiance, you can get a paint job for about 50$ in materials...it just takes patiance, LOTS of it...
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...art=1&vc=1
its a couple posts down...now if youve got time, and patiance, you can get a paint job for about 50$ in materials...it just takes patiance, LOTS of it...
#15
RE: Poor Man's Painting
weekend project first of june.
#16
RE: Poor Man's Painting
As for paint guns, no need to buy an expensive paint gun. Most shops use HVLP guns and the painters will tell you that an expensive gun cost more to maintain than the cheap ones. When the cheap ones wear out, just throe it away and go buy a new one. Harbor Freight sells good HVLP guns for 50-100 dollars. I got the mid-range one for about 60 dollars and used it til it would not pattern right. I painted a car and a truck and a couple of motorcycles.
#17
RE: Poor Man's Painting
as far as painting your car with a roller, its new to me!!!
i do this for a living, and yes the expensive guns cost more to take care of, but they do a MUCH better job. You get what you pay for. The cheap guns are ok as far as primer, but when it comes to laying about a metallic or making your clear look like glass i will take an expensive gun. For what you save buying a cheap gun you quickly lose in a production shop by having to do a lot more wet sanding/buffing than needed Time=money. But for the hobby guy, it probably don't matter.
i do this for a living, and yes the expensive guns cost more to take care of, but they do a MUCH better job. You get what you pay for. The cheap guns are ok as far as primer, but when it comes to laying about a metallic or making your clear look like glass i will take an expensive gun. For what you save buying a cheap gun you quickly lose in a production shop by having to do a lot more wet sanding/buffing than needed Time=money. But for the hobby guy, it probably don't matter.
ORIGINAL: ron768
As for paint guns, no need to buy an expensive paint gun. Most shops use HVLP guns and the painters will tell you that an expensive gun cost more to maintain than the cheap ones. When the cheap ones wear out, just throe it away and go buy a new one. Harbor Freight sells good HVLP guns for 50-100 dollars. I got the mid-range one for about 60 dollars and used it til it would not pattern right. I painted a car and a truck and a couple of motorcycles.
As for paint guns, no need to buy an expensive paint gun. Most shops use HVLP guns and the painters will tell you that an expensive gun cost more to maintain than the cheap ones. When the cheap ones wear out, just throe it away and go buy a new one. Harbor Freight sells good HVLP guns for 50-100 dollars. I got the mid-range one for about 60 dollars and used it til it would not pattern right. I painted a car and a truck and a couple of motorcycles.
#18
RE: Poor Man's Painting
Started sanding today, I cant manage to get all the way to red without going to bare metal as the red was a thin coat. Boy is this a bitch, but anyways I did some more googling turns out theres a whole website about it. http://rollyourcar.com/default.aspx
I'll be making a tutorial about it on my website if it turns out great, if not then only wasted 50 bucks.
I'll be making a tutorial about it on my website if it turns out great, if not then only wasted 50 bucks.
#19
RE: Poor Man's Painting
curse, there is a way to get apaint job for under $200 and usually around $100.The finished product can range from decent to professional depending on how many hours you are willing to spend on the prep work.
I am in the process of painting my 93 Blazer which will be used frequently to go to the farm. this car will get scratched by blackberry vines and other vegetation so a $2000 professional paint job seems silly to me.
I have used this process on 3 cars so far and after 13 years one of them still looks nice with no rust through. (White police Impala on my website)
I sand each rusted area to bare metal if possible and at least get all the loose rust off if not. Also rough up the paint for 3 or 4 inches around the spot. Next spray the area with most any brand of rust reformer. Let dry 24 hours and respray. Let second coat dry 24 hours and then spray with Rustoleum rusty metal primer. Lightly sand and then apply spot putty to any low areas. Level with sandpaper and apply another coat of Rustoleum primer.
Do that to all the rusted areas. Use either spot putty or bondo to level out all minor dings and then sand the whole car. Just take the glaze off the old paint. No need to go to bare metal. I never allow the car to get wet once I start.
Blow the sanding dust off the car, mask off areas you don't want painted, wipe down with mineral spirits, and spray with Rustoleum enamel after the mineral spirits has totally dried. If you get too much mineral spirits on it wipe dry with a clean cloth. Spray a thin coat first and allow it to dry a full 30 minutes and then respray. It may be necessary to spray several thin coats to keep it from running. If you are changing colors and need to spray the door jams, it is helpful if you choose a color that is also available in spray cans. It is much more convenient to spray small areas with a spray can than to have to clean up a spray gun after each little session.
I have used a regular spray gun to do this but prefer the Harbor Freight HVLP gun because it has virtually no over spray. I have too many things to do to spend a week or so sanding out all scratches for a perfect finish so I just mix the paint a little thick and let a slight orange peel hide them all.
The yellow Chevelle roadster on my website (yes it is a true roadster. there is no top, no provision for a top, and no roll up windows), the Suburban, and the white Impala police car have all been painted using this procedure. The Suburban has 5 years on it's paint job and the Chevelle 7.
I am in the process of painting my 93 Blazer which will be used frequently to go to the farm. this car will get scratched by blackberry vines and other vegetation so a $2000 professional paint job seems silly to me.
I have used this process on 3 cars so far and after 13 years one of them still looks nice with no rust through. (White police Impala on my website)
I sand each rusted area to bare metal if possible and at least get all the loose rust off if not. Also rough up the paint for 3 or 4 inches around the spot. Next spray the area with most any brand of rust reformer. Let dry 24 hours and respray. Let second coat dry 24 hours and then spray with Rustoleum rusty metal primer. Lightly sand and then apply spot putty to any low areas. Level with sandpaper and apply another coat of Rustoleum primer.
Do that to all the rusted areas. Use either spot putty or bondo to level out all minor dings and then sand the whole car. Just take the glaze off the old paint. No need to go to bare metal. I never allow the car to get wet once I start.
Blow the sanding dust off the car, mask off areas you don't want painted, wipe down with mineral spirits, and spray with Rustoleum enamel after the mineral spirits has totally dried. If you get too much mineral spirits on it wipe dry with a clean cloth. Spray a thin coat first and allow it to dry a full 30 minutes and then respray. It may be necessary to spray several thin coats to keep it from running. If you are changing colors and need to spray the door jams, it is helpful if you choose a color that is also available in spray cans. It is much more convenient to spray small areas with a spray can than to have to clean up a spray gun after each little session.
I have used a regular spray gun to do this but prefer the Harbor Freight HVLP gun because it has virtually no over spray. I have too many things to do to spend a week or so sanding out all scratches for a perfect finish so I just mix the paint a little thick and let a slight orange peel hide them all.
The yellow Chevelle roadster on my website (yes it is a true roadster. there is no top, no provision for a top, and no roll up windows), the Suburban, and the white Impala police car have all been painted using this procedure. The Suburban has 5 years on it's paint job and the Chevelle 7.
#20
RE: Poor Man's Painting
ya its sweet that you can do it so cheap
wish my paint was cheap
i spent $500on my paint (thats with a bit left over for touch ups)
wish my paint was cheap
i spent $500on my paint (thats with a bit left over for touch ups)
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