actually, it'll corrode the contacts inside the switch.

that's what happened to mine. the left/right for the power mirrors wouldn't work when i first got the truck. also, i had to really push the button hard, for the driver's front widow to go down.

when i took it out, all of the internal contacts on the rear of the switch were green & white.

 

Hmm, didn't know that I figured it was like most other electronics and water normally you could just let it dry out and it would be good to go.

 

I am having the same exact problem, only it is a lot worse. My driver's side floor is completely soaked now, even a while after it last rained/snowed. Plus, my power driver's seat has stopped working, and this is the second time that it has stopped. The last time, my mechanic had to rewire all the wires under the driver's carpet, cause I guess they shorted out, and snapped due to all the water. Now that you have mentioned both weatherstripping and door hinges, it makes sense cause I know that I definitely need to replace the door hinge pins and bushings which I already have, but also the weatherstripping on top of the door is completely flat which it shouldn't be. This has also cause the paint to chip on the top corner of my door where it makes contact with that flat part of the weatherstripping, and it has started a tiny piece of rust. I am definitely going to start with both the hinge pins, and the weather stripping. Hope I helped anyone the same way you guys just helped me out.

 

so i finally fixed the weather striping, but on the 2000 2 door, there are vents on the outsides of the rear hatch glass. Well the pass. side seemed like it was leaking and i just looked in the back and i have a puddle next to my sub box. i have it tipped up and a towel on the puddle to dry but does anybody have any idea on how to fix this without having to spend hundreds of dollars????

 

it sounds more like a weak window motor. have you checked the glass channel yet? they're gonna need to be able to move freely in the channels or they're gonna draw too many amps, and the motor will clip out for a bit.

kinda surprised that the window wouldn't go down @ all, it's usually the other way around.

i'm guessing it was only one window that was doing this (driver's side?)

actually, all of the trucks have those vents, it's just a lot easier to do anything with them on the 4 doors since the rear pillar panels simply unbolt from the truck.

i know that on your 2 door those panels are part of the rear side glass trim/seal, and the window needs to be removed to get those covers off.

are you sure that the vents are the source of the water? try throwing some corn starch or baking powder around the area where you think the leak is coming from. it'll "stick" to wherever there is moisture, giving you a starting point to the source of it.

 

I too have a puddle on my driver's side floor. I took off the little kick panel on the driver's side and i could see the water was coming from the pillar behind the seat. there was a water trail leading all the way from the pillar to the footwell. It's still raining so I haven't had the chance to explore further. It doesn't look like my weatherstripping is bad anywhere. This only just started a little bit ago. this is the second time it's happened. and it seems like it takes quite a bit of rain to make it happen. What could this be?

 

there are gaskets under your roof rack. try tightening up the bolts that holt it on, if that doesnt work take the old gasket out, put a bead of silicone down & re assemble it.

Same thing goes with the third eye brake light. there is a gasket underneath it. if it goes bad your back carpet around the tie downs will be wet.

I learned all of this courtesy of a subwoofer. I have since removed that silly vibration box due to the fact that it was causing more problems than it was worth.

 

hey thanks for all the help everybody. i checked the roofrack and the 3rd brake light and have sealed them with silicone and will let you know how it works next time it rains like hell [only time it leaked]

 

good to see you (hopefully) found the issue.

@ jsmz: funny, i'm currently looking @ where i can stuff a 10 or 12 in the back (outta the way, since i use the back of my truck regularly), and never would've thought it'd be an issue.

'cause i sure as hell never had any issue with the two 12W6's i had pounding in the back of my '92 Jimmy. but then again, we all know that the trucks were better built back then.

 

Yeah i never figured it would be an issue either until the back end turned into lake chevrolet during a rain storm one night LOL!

But, I agree the trucks were a little more solid on 1st gen bodys, but when it comes to rust... 2nd gen double sided galvanized steel takes the win.