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Everything is all done now. The gear selector works fine but the P on the shifter does not light up, but it does go into park. I do have a bunch of other random, possibly related or unrelated issues. the backup lights are still on, the rear hatch glass randomly unlocks itself and the alarm just keeps going off.
I think you are glad you got the stuff under the truck fixed.
Sounds all electrical issue. Good luck and a lot of patience to find it.
Definataly. Once I get my wiring and interior squared away I am going to replace the entire u-joint and adjust the neutral safety switch. It is just slightly off.
Pulled the front driveshaft out yesterday to replace the u-joint that lost a needle bearing. I have a question though. I couldn't get it to turn by hand even though it is in 2WD, shouldn't it spin freely? Now when I got it out the front yoke spun by hand very easily.
The old u-joint was pretty shot
It was getting late and pretty hot still so I will put this guy in eventually. I doubt that I will need 4WD any time soon.
Last edited by Tajohns34; Jul 2, 2018 at 11:00 AM.
Slow night here at work, means I'm doing other things... watching MMA and researching for my Blazer.
Tajohns34, this build thread has been a real gem to read.
Your rig has been like a great movie script....rise to prominence, setbacks suffered, only to come back better than ever.
Lots of great info here. Definitely will be swapping out my HVAC ***** for the Bravada style.
Couple info tidbits I can add;
Your old OnStar cover had a "blank" rectangle towards the hatch side, that you ended up adding a converter for your fans. I believe that there were other options that would be concealed under there...like an air compressor, or power inverter plug, which would have been accessible through that rectangle.
And that cool USB charger you added to the back of the center console? Same kind of deal....more options like a cigarette charger, and I think even a headphone jack for the stereo...?
I venture into my local salvage yards frequently and have run across these (rarely) in the higher end models....Jimmy Envoys, Platinum Bravadas, etc.
Anywho, awesome thread. Wish I would have started something like this.
I was out and about yesterday and on one of my stops I came out to the blazer to see my charcoal canister hanging down below my bumper. So I shoved it up into my bumper and left. I did notice that he rear section didn't have the nuts to hold it in. I swear, whoever owned this thing before me.... I took the bumper end cap off and this is what I found.
I bolted it up and decided to fix it.
I want to eventually find a new bracket, but for now zip ties FTW.
Now, onto the second part of this issue. I have had a PO440 code for a long time now. I think I may have just found my issue.
Yup, they were only connected to the charcoal canister. Here is the other end
The lines are actually pretty solid a few inches further up. However, these things are shot.
Yes, that's the 440 evap code. That nylon line is close enough to 5/16" that a nylon to steel compression fitting will connect if you run the plastic under water that's too hot for your finger. Then you can just connect it to 5/16" brake line.
Since I have a couple of days off I figured I would tackle these fuel lines. I went to advance and got some 1/4 and 5/16 brake lines. I also got a small pipe cutter. They didn't have any fuel line but my dad had some so I was good there. Cut these pieces off, the smaller line was still rusty where I cut it but it was just surface, it was still pretty solid.
Test fitting
All done. I didn't plan on needing 6 hose clamps and only bought 4 pack of fuel line clamps. So I used 2 regular hose clamps but it seems plenty strong.
Since i had it out, I found and old heat shield and flattened it out to make a piece to weld onto the canister bracket. My dad had some blue engine paint sitting around so I painted it because I could. I tried to get pictures but my flash got turned on and most of them are too washed out. I didn't feel like taking the bumper end back off just for pictures.
The canister still didn't fit quite right so, zip ties again.
Hopefully that keeps the engine light from coming back on.
