Bravada axle swap
#1
Bravada axle swap
I was wondering if anyone has more info on the Bravada axle swap. I understand the axle part. but what do i do with the vacum tubes running to the actuator that i remove.
I know i have a HAVC and a heater-core issues on the go, and I am installing a rough country kit shortly, if installing the axle tube now while doing the rc kit, will this help me delay the HAVC troubles i am experencing or possible fix them?
2005 GMC Jimmy 4x4 2door 178 *** km
I know i have a HAVC and a heater-core issues on the go, and I am installing a rough country kit shortly, if installing the axle tube now while doing the rc kit, will this help me delay the HAVC troubles i am experencing or possible fix them?
2005 GMC Jimmy 4x4 2door 178 *** km
#2
front or rear axle?
If you are wanting to swap the Bravada rear axle in, I am wondering why? I thought the 2004 and later Jimmy's had the G80 locker in the rear already. Maybe my info is wrong. I had a G80 and swapped it out for a truetrac unit for road drive-ability reasons. I have heard that the G80s are not as strong as the LSDs. I believe it because there is a lot less metal to the carrier. Swapping the complete axle is mostly bolt turning. Follow the book and you will be fine. Swapping the differential is a much more involved process. In retrospect, I wish I had just swapped the axle instead of the diff. Before you do anything, pull the pan off the differential to make sure you dont already have the differential that you are after.
If you want to swap the Bravada front axle in, I am also wondering why? Your mention of the vacuum lines makes me think that is what you are talking about. I dont know about post 2000 Bravada's, but my 98 Bravada does not have the vacuum actuator. If you are wanting to get rid of this acutator you will need to change the Tcase as well, I think. Even though the front prop shaft is free to turn when in 2H, the syncro needs to operate against a free rotating assembly in order to engage 4wd while moving. If you remove the vacuum actuator assembly, you will damage the Tcase unless you ONLY switch from 2wd to 4wd while stopped.
The only way removing the vacuum actuator will change your HVAC system operation is if you have low vacuum or a leaking vacuum check valve. Vacuum check valve is near the brake booster I think and the most likely reason for low vacuum would be an ignition problem.
Sounds like you may have a few things to sort out before doing the RC kit...
Good Luck,
-William
If you are wanting to swap the Bravada rear axle in, I am wondering why? I thought the 2004 and later Jimmy's had the G80 locker in the rear already. Maybe my info is wrong. I had a G80 and swapped it out for a truetrac unit for road drive-ability reasons. I have heard that the G80s are not as strong as the LSDs. I believe it because there is a lot less metal to the carrier. Swapping the complete axle is mostly bolt turning. Follow the book and you will be fine. Swapping the differential is a much more involved process. In retrospect, I wish I had just swapped the axle instead of the diff. Before you do anything, pull the pan off the differential to make sure you dont already have the differential that you are after.
If you want to swap the Bravada front axle in, I am also wondering why? Your mention of the vacuum lines makes me think that is what you are talking about. I dont know about post 2000 Bravada's, but my 98 Bravada does not have the vacuum actuator. If you are wanting to get rid of this acutator you will need to change the Tcase as well, I think. Even though the front prop shaft is free to turn when in 2H, the syncro needs to operate against a free rotating assembly in order to engage 4wd while moving. If you remove the vacuum actuator assembly, you will damage the Tcase unless you ONLY switch from 2wd to 4wd while stopped.
The only way removing the vacuum actuator will change your HVAC system operation is if you have low vacuum or a leaking vacuum check valve. Vacuum check valve is near the brake booster I think and the most likely reason for low vacuum would be an ignition problem.
Sounds like you may have a few things to sort out before doing the RC kit...
Good Luck,
-William
#3
2wd to 4 hi can be done on the fly. i wouldnt do it at 70 on the highway, but moderate, there is no issue. 4 lo, should be put in neutral and sometimes requires vehicle to be rolling slightly.
Should be able to just plug em off. I highly doubt itll fix your hvac problem, guessing your controls are acting goofy? have to find the leak/issue and fix it.
reason for swapping axle tube/axle shaft, is 1 piece. no more vaccum to engage dif, only down side is rolling resistance, slight mpg loss.
Should be able to just plug em off. I highly doubt itll fix your hvac problem, guessing your controls are acting goofy? have to find the leak/issue and fix it.
reason for swapping axle tube/axle shaft, is 1 piece. no more vaccum to engage dif, only down side is rolling resistance, slight mpg loss.
#4
ok so i read alot about this mod. i have a 2000 jimmy slt 4wd and offroad alot. i seen ppl swap the stock driveshaft that connects from the transfer case to the front diff and looks diffrent. is this what ppl are talking about? if so i can get one from a 99 bravada thats local. if not what exactly is it i need and how do i swap it to make it work? details and pics would help as im confused on this subject
#5
your stock driveshaft will be fine.
make sure the gear ratio matches, yank other one, install new one, plug vacuum line, done.
between certain years, the only difference that would pop up that you have to watch for is, some cv shafts are slid on and locked, some bolt on with a flange. Pretty easy to tell them apart. Your jimmy should have slip on style.
make sure the gear ratio matches, yank other one, install new one, plug vacuum line, done.
between certain years, the only difference that would pop up that you have to watch for is, some cv shafts are slid on and locked, some bolt on with a flange. Pretty easy to tell them apart. Your jimmy should have slip on style.
#8
Just the passenger side extension housing & shaft is all that needs to be swapped out, not the entire axle. The extension housing & shaft isn't that difficult. Note that this isn't the drive shaft that I am talking about, rather the shaft that is inside the passenger side extension housing that runs between the differential center section (aluminum housing) and the passenger side CV shaft.
Really, the extension housing doesn't need to be swapped out, but you have to remove it to change the shaft, so you might as well use the one from the Bravada that doesn't have the holes in it for the shift cable mechanism, etc.
Really, the extension housing doesn't need to be swapped out, but you have to remove it to change the shaft, so you might as well use the one from the Bravada that doesn't have the holes in it for the shift cable mechanism, etc.