Could someone measure the length of the bump stop that is on the bracket under the upper arm. It's the big one that's held in by one bolt. I'm trying to find a universal polyurethane replacement but I want to order the right one. I guessing it will be the first one on this http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/bsp2.html page or the one under it. Thanks, mine are completely disintegrated.

 

I don't know about the ones shown on the page you linked to, but what about the ones listed on this pageunder "S-10 Blazer, S-15 Jimmy 4WD"? Hope this helps.

 

I must be missing something on that page because all I see are control arm bushings, leaf spring, body mounts and way bar bushings. The one I need looks like this: http://chevytruckworld.tenmagazines.....asp?id=194055

Edit: Bilstein HD shocks say they don't need bump stops, but I wonder how tough that would be on the shock mounts.

 

I thought you were asking about the upper control arm bushings. They list them as set numbers on that pagerather than individual numbers. That's all I know, but I would replace them as a set rather than one at a time.

 

I have already replaced all my control arm bushings, ball joints, idler arm, pitman arm, and tie rods. I just noticed that the bump stop is gone so I want to replace that while the car is still apart. I am now having second thoughts about the polyurethane because I think these bump stops actually contact the control arm more often than not to creat a more progressive spring rate.

 

Don't universal bump stops have to be trimmed to replicate the stock bump stop? I don't think you're supposed to leave the 6' long universal bolted on..

I also don't see how a polyurethane bump stop is going to effect the 'spring rate' for any object weighing more than 500 lbs. A 2-ton truck slamming down on it's suspension isn't gunna see much effect from a 4' too long bump stop...the bump stop will just break away after some time if you leave it that long.

 

I figured that it would help with the spring rate because I know that on a lot of Chevys that the bump stop is actually touching the control arm. This would mean there would either be no upward travel or that the jounce bumper is soft enough to compress, thus adding to the spring rate. I just ordered the 2" universal I'll see how that does.

 

Hrm that's interesting. I've never seen that before. Well I guess if it's made to do that, it'll hold up!

 

Yea, I guess the OE GM is designed to compress and is softer/hollow. I'm afraid that the poly ones will just slam. I figure I'll trim it until it stops the suspension right before the shock does.

Your truck looks really good. I like how the lights are mounted. Did you make those brackets?

 

I'm in the process of replacing mine, too. The rubber part of the bump stop, minus the mount, is 2 inches. I found an exact replacementat Car Quest; the other various partsstores in the area didn't carry them. They were about $15 each, which was $5 cheaper than the Chevy dealer.

You will likely run into a rusty stud/nut on the top end, soak it good with penetrating oil. You will also need some clearance to get at the nut. If the wheels are down, you'll have to work around the tire;if the truck is up on jack stands, you'll have to place a jack under the lower control arm to load it and create some clearance to get a wrench in there. KEEP YOUR FINGERS CLEAR OF THE GAP.

The little tabs on the mounts on mine got bent while trying to remove the rusty nut; one slip of apipe wrench and smashed finger later, I got one of themremoved. You can hold thenut on top with a wrench and getthe pipe wrench around the mount on the bottom and turn it. The stud actually twisted off and broke. Am on a break until tackling the other one, heh heh.

Hope this helps.

G. Downs