Greetings all,
I am having a little trouble and was hoping someone could help me out. I have always done vehicle maintenance on my vehicles. However I am new to off-roading and my 2000 4dr Blazer is my first 4wheel drive vehicle.

While "attempting" to do some off-roading, I managed to break both of the mount "ears" off of my front diff. I got a new used one from the salvage yard. It is a GU6 so I think it was 3:42. Anyway, I got the whole thing apart, changed the ball joints, shocks and tie rods, but when I tried to put the front differential back in, I could not get it back into place. It almost looks like I have to either remove the oil pan pain in the *** or lift the whole motor up out of the way.

Before I attempt either of these wonderful projects, I was wondering if anyone knew of a simpler way to get this back in. Am I missing the simple solution or am I correct in assuming I will have to do one or the other?

Any assistance with this will be greatly appreciated.

 

You should be able to get it in there without doing those, but it is a real pain. The most pain free method I know of is to disconnect the steering center link from the pitman arm and idler. If you don't want to do that you can also bend the mounting tabs where the steering stabilizer would bolt on if had of GM equiped them on our trucks. That will get you an inch or so more room.

 

^^^like he said.


Just make sure the rear end is the same gear ratio as your front. Or damage will accure.

 

Thank you both. I already tried disassembling the pitman and idler. I even thought about grinding a little bit off of the A arm but that wouldn't solve the problem either. The problem I am having is that the differential housing is hitting the oil pan. I think it is starting to look like I will be lifting the motor up a couple of inches to make room. I don't want to mess with the oil pan; what with the lines being attached to it and having to pull the pump out too.

I did check the truck for gear ratio. I got the code of the label in the glove box and made sure I crossed it with the salvage yard. (Whispering Oaks in Battle Creek if you ever need anything, the people there are great!) It's good that you put that information out there though. That is a very valuable nugget of info.

 

Yep,i like adding info the OP might already know. Hundreds of people only lurk and search. Something i say i save someone $100's of dollars. Also,gu6 is indeed 3:42. My blazer i just purchased has 3:42 and g80 gov lock. Fun to drive!

 

Yeah, like I said; I am glad you mentioned it. I only knew to check the ratio because a friend of mine told me. Of course the guy at the salvage yard asked me too. If someone didn't know and put in the wrong one it would tear something up for sure. I am knew to all of this. I have had the Blazer for two years and done simple stuff like brakes but I want to lift it a little and get into more off road action. A friend of mine (big into Jeeps) steered me toward this forum. Now that I've spent a lot of time under the truck, I realize I need to change the trans pan gasket and the rear diff gasket as well. She runs real well and climbed every hill I tried, effortlessly but she leaks quite a bit.

 

front diff is cake to get back in. lay under the truck. turn diff sideways so the yoke is pointing at the driver side. roll it up forward so the tab will clear, turn the diff at the same time and it will then fall into place. its a lot easier with a second person holding the axel tube on the passenger side directing it. i removed my tierods and ceterlink all as one unit and manuvered it around the idle and pitman just fine. just dont force anything.

 

Yep, Jake you're right. I pulled off the tie rods and center link and it cleared real easy. Well, kind of easy, you do have to maneuver it around just right. It is kind of tricky and an extra set of hands would have been nice for sure. I had already pulled the motor mount bolts and jacked the motor up a couple inches, so I had more room than I needed. Diff is back in, along with new ball joints, tie rods, shocks, universal joint, driver side CV axel, passenger side bearing hub assembly and break pads. Also changed out the rear diff cover and bolts and will be doing the trans pan gasket and filter next. I had it aligned and it drives real well. Can't wait to start doing some mods now.