cross drilled and slotted,slotted or standard disk
#2
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: KW Ontario
Posts: 1,110

the slotted or drilled rotors are supposed to aid in cooling and allowing the gases that braking creates between the pad and rotor escape for better performance
I had them on the front of my civic for less than 6 months and had noise and pedal feed back
Hard braking at 60 - 70 mph sounded like some thing was going to shake off
I got the rotors and pads replaced under warranty and switched back to the OEM style
IMO unless you are going to drive it like its stolen don't do it
I had them on the front of my civic for less than 6 months and had noise and pedal feed back
Hard braking at 60 - 70 mph sounded like some thing was going to shake off
I got the rotors and pads replaced under warranty and switched back to the OEM style
IMO unless you are going to drive it like its stolen don't do it
#4
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: KW Ontario
Posts: 1,110

Look for High Carbon rotors
They are being used for extreme duty like police
NAPA - Products - HIDE_ProductSecondLevel - HIDE_Product Detail
They are being used for extreme duty like police
NAPA - Products - HIDE_ProductSecondLevel - HIDE_Product Detail
#5
Cross drilled will develop cracks (even if microscopic) and lead to warping. They work the best for cooling and keeping the pads from glazing. Unless your building a race car and gonna swap them for new ones every race skip them.
Slotted don't create holes for cracks yet still allow air in to allow some cooling. Since some material is removed that does create a weaker spot and will warp before a solid disk.
Both of those styles help prevent pad glazing but wear out pads faster. Same way a metal file removes metal the slots and holes scrap the pad. That's what keeps it from glazing but removes material. Offroad they also load up with dirt and mud so add file action and sandpaper action together. Most guys that run either on the street do it for looks since you "shouldn't" be driving around to need to be braking hard enough all the time to glaze the pads. Pulling a loaded trailer through steep mountains is the only time during normal driving I can think of glazing might be a problem. During normal driving all 3 stop the same. You have better luck playing with pads of different materials or going to hydroboost for better stopping.
So unless you like replacing pads all the time (I have lifetime on mine so I know its not $$ but still a pita) or replacing warped or cracked rotors I'd highly suggest normal rotors. Yes when I was younger went for the hype and tried drilled and slotted. I even went as far as getting my hands on a set of aluminum drums for the rear of my v8 s10. That was before factory s-series disk days and conversion kits were way out of my price.
Slotted don't create holes for cracks yet still allow air in to allow some cooling. Since some material is removed that does create a weaker spot and will warp before a solid disk.
Both of those styles help prevent pad glazing but wear out pads faster. Same way a metal file removes metal the slots and holes scrap the pad. That's what keeps it from glazing but removes material. Offroad they also load up with dirt and mud so add file action and sandpaper action together. Most guys that run either on the street do it for looks since you "shouldn't" be driving around to need to be braking hard enough all the time to glaze the pads. Pulling a loaded trailer through steep mountains is the only time during normal driving I can think of glazing might be a problem. During normal driving all 3 stop the same. You have better luck playing with pads of different materials or going to hydroboost for better stopping.
So unless you like replacing pads all the time (I have lifetime on mine so I know its not $$ but still a pita) or replacing warped or cracked rotors I'd highly suggest normal rotors. Yes when I was younger went for the hype and tried drilled and slotted. I even went as far as getting my hands on a set of aluminum drums for the rear of my v8 s10. That was before factory s-series disk days and conversion kits were way out of my price.
Last edited by neo71665; 01-25-2013 at 09:06 PM.
#6
Having machined the rotors of at least 4 of my vehicles I have never warped one rotor! This has been on a 130 mph Vette; 190 mi dragster; 1gen autox V8. They were either slotted or drilled. The 225mph altered has carbon carbon so I prolly wont slot them. Slotting helped the dd blazer, does help shed water.
#7
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: KW Ontario
Posts: 1,110

a lot of warped rotors are result of a dragging brake
I am a little **** about cleaning pins and slide area's before lubing with a high quakity brake lube
There are lots of guys still using antiseeze
Antiseeze will cause any rubber to swell because of its petroleum base resulting in the calipers to hang up ,brake drag and overheating
I am a little **** about cleaning pins and slide area's before lubing with a high quakity brake lube
There are lots of guys still using antiseeze
Antiseeze will cause any rubber to swell because of its petroleum base resulting in the calipers to hang up ,brake drag and overheating
#8
Starting Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 104

I run slotted and cross drilled rotors on all my stuff. I've never had a problem with the pads being filed away. Cooler brakes will stop much better. They are worth putting on especially if your going to be running over sized tires.
I have them on my Trans Am and at 147MPH through the traps no problems with warping and it takes allot of stopping power at that speed. Plus the car is street driven.
I have them on my Trans Am and at 147MPH through the traps no problems with warping and it takes allot of stopping power at that speed. Plus the car is street driven.
#9
Thanks for all the info from everyone just wanted to know because my brakes are due I just changed my from ones 2 weeks ago now my back ones are due but I think I'll keep stocks I do have 31x10.5 mud tires on it and it is my daily driver
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