Which cylinder bore? and brake line question.
#1
10-14-2013, 11:37 PM
Which cylinder bore? and brake line question.
1988 S-10 Blazer, 4.3, 4x4, power brakes.
Truck's been pulling to the right when I hit the brakes. I had the truck over to the mechanic, who told me it needs new front brake hoses (beginning to split), rear brake lines (cylinders not releasing), and new rear brake cylinders. Also the hardware kit for the above, which is a couple dollars.
Now he buys parts at NAPA at a discount, then sells them to me at retail + markup, so I try to get my own parts for him to install whenever possible. I see that the online parts vendors have different rear wheel cylinders available for this vehicle, with either 3/4" or 7/8" bore, both of which are claimed to be "exact fit". I've no actual idea which I've got, or even if they've been replaced as yet, and what with.
A bit of research comes out with these "facts" (veracity unproven):
1) the 3/4" bore cylinders are intended for power brake use, and the 7/8" for manual brakes, but that either will fit;
2) if you install the 7/8 ones on a power brake system you will change the brake bias from 70/30 front/rear to 65/35,
3) you'll have longer pedal travel, and more pressure at the wheel than with the stock cylinders, but
4) you run the risk of the master cylinder not having enough fluid to fully apply the brakes (possibly not applicable to this vehicle, this was a problem in Ford pickups).
As I said, this is from a half hour of searching boards similar to this one for various other car models, so not necessarily authoritative, and whoever posted them might have been wrong. I did search here, but haven't found anything specific yet.
This being the case, what size cylinder would the experts here recommend that I get?
The second question: Mechanic wants 3 hours labor to replace all that. Part of this is making new steel brake lines from scratch. There's a GMC dealer who has the entire set, pre-bent to fit and with fittings already on, for $155 in steel or $185 in stainless steel. You can also get (from eBay) the set of lines in the correct lengths, the fittings installed but you have to bend it yourself, for more like $45. Is the first option worth while to save the pain-in-the-*** factor?
Truck's been pulling to the right when I hit the brakes. I had the truck over to the mechanic, who told me it needs new front brake hoses (beginning to split), rear brake lines (cylinders not releasing), and new rear brake cylinders. Also the hardware kit for the above, which is a couple dollars.
Now he buys parts at NAPA at a discount, then sells them to me at retail + markup, so I try to get my own parts for him to install whenever possible. I see that the online parts vendors have different rear wheel cylinders available for this vehicle, with either 3/4" or 7/8" bore, both of which are claimed to be "exact fit". I've no actual idea which I've got, or even if they've been replaced as yet, and what with.
A bit of research comes out with these "facts" (veracity unproven):
1) the 3/4" bore cylinders are intended for power brake use, and the 7/8" for manual brakes, but that either will fit;
2) if you install the 7/8 ones on a power brake system you will change the brake bias from 70/30 front/rear to 65/35,
3) you'll have longer pedal travel, and more pressure at the wheel than with the stock cylinders, but
4) you run the risk of the master cylinder not having enough fluid to fully apply the brakes (possibly not applicable to this vehicle, this was a problem in Ford pickups).
As I said, this is from a half hour of searching boards similar to this one for various other car models, so not necessarily authoritative, and whoever posted them might have been wrong. I did search here, but haven't found anything specific yet.
This being the case, what size cylinder would the experts here recommend that I get?
The second question: Mechanic wants 3 hours labor to replace all that. Part of this is making new steel brake lines from scratch. There's a GMC dealer who has the entire set, pre-bent to fit and with fittings already on, for $155 in steel or $185 in stainless steel. You can also get (from eBay) the set of lines in the correct lengths, the fittings installed but you have to bend it yourself, for more like $45. Is the first option worth while to save the pain-in-the-*** factor?
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