diff problems
#21
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location:
Posts: 16

ok and do u think if i got them machined down a lil bit do you think that would be good and maybe even if i had just a lil bit of play in the rear ?
#22
You have to properly set the backlash, then check the gear pattern, and LAST put the axles in. You need a dial indicator at the very least.
#23
BF Veteran
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Vancouver. B.C. Canada
Posts: 3,429



The first thing that you should have done is measure the pre-load of the pinion bearings when you had the carrier (with the ring gear) out. Measured with an inch pound (dial type) torque wrench. The rotating torque reading should be 15-25 inch pounds.
Then put the carrier assembly into the diff housing with the shims and torque the bearing caps to 55 ft lbs. Measure the pinion rotating torque again and it should read between 25 to 50 inch pounds.
The reason that the diff won't turn is that you have no backlash, the ring gear and the pinion gear are to close. The diff carrier (with the ring gear) has to be shimmed away from the pinion gear.
You should be able to move the ring gear by hand back and forth .001" to .002", measured with a dial indicator ( that's the backlash). If you can't get this to work with the shims that you have then you need to buy a shim pack and try various different combinations til you get it right.
You will have to measure the shim thickness with a micrometer. There should be no side to side play in the diff, it goes in tight.
Once you have all these readings correct you need to paint the gear teeth (4 or 5 teeth will do)with gear marking compound and load the gears ( a long screwdriver between the housing and the ring gear will work) and turn the pinion one revolution.
The marks on the ring gear should be centered. If they are not, then the backlash needs to be adjusted.
This is the pattern you should see when it's all set up.
[IMG]local://upfiles/2910/F47A11AE08E3498A9B376896DB9FD3F0.gif[/IMG]
Then put the carrier assembly into the diff housing with the shims and torque the bearing caps to 55 ft lbs. Measure the pinion rotating torque again and it should read between 25 to 50 inch pounds.
The reason that the diff won't turn is that you have no backlash, the ring gear and the pinion gear are to close. The diff carrier (with the ring gear) has to be shimmed away from the pinion gear.
You should be able to move the ring gear by hand back and forth .001" to .002", measured with a dial indicator ( that's the backlash). If you can't get this to work with the shims that you have then you need to buy a shim pack and try various different combinations til you get it right.
You will have to measure the shim thickness with a micrometer. There should be no side to side play in the diff, it goes in tight.
Once you have all these readings correct you need to paint the gear teeth (4 or 5 teeth will do)with gear marking compound and load the gears ( a long screwdriver between the housing and the ring gear will work) and turn the pinion one revolution.
The marks on the ring gear should be centered. If they are not, then the backlash needs to be adjusted.
This is the pattern you should see when it's all set up.
[IMG]local://upfiles/2910/F47A11AE08E3498A9B376896DB9FD3F0.gif[/IMG]
#24
BF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: GP AB CA
Posts: 3,946



From the looks of the gear mesh you need... You could almost do it the same way as with remote controlled vehicles...
Put a piece of paper between the gears, then tighten it up, and then rotate the paper out, then check your alignment with the tools and gear markings...
Put a piece of paper between the gears, then tighten it up, and then rotate the paper out, then check your alignment with the tools and gear markings...
#25
Haha oh dear...And to think I was at one point considering changing my own differential gears...
Yikes is all I can say, and good luck!
Yikes is all I can say, and good luck!
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