do i have to drop the front diff assy to replace the shaft bearings? front end is making a growling noise and the only thing it can be is the front diff bearings, already replaced both wheel hub assy, noise goes away when i 4 wheel drive. any help on this would be greatly appricated

 

If the noise goes away when in 4wd, it isn't the bearings.

Check out the link below:
4wd Front Axle Clicking When in 2HI - Goes Away when in 4HI/4LO

 

If you have a three button switch i would put my money on the transfer case switch your front end is partally engaged making the noise the noise you are discribing is what my moms did. To check it i unhooked the vacume line that goes to the transfer case. Noise went away. So i knew the switch was bad. Changed the 15 dollar part.

 

thanks, im getting ready to check that right now. i will let you know what i find, i hope your right.

i do have a vacum on the hose to the actuator when in two hi, drove the truck, noise still there, now what? its been like this since Oct. could it have already caused damage? there is always a vacum on that hose when i switch it back from 2 to 4 wheel, i can also here it switch the transfer case when hose is disconnected, would be able to do that if hose is disconnected?

 

You should have no vacume to the accuator when in 2hi. Tcase switch is BAD. Unhook the hose plug it try to drive it. Noise should be gone.

 

ok, thanks, i did do what you said, there is a vacum at the hose, i drove it with it dissconnected, no difference with the noise. what switch is bad? the switch at the dash? also should it still be able to shift from two wheel to four wheel when hose is disconnected? i switched it back and fourth and i could here the transfer case making noise, like it was shifting.

 

There are many thing up there that can make a growling noise like CVs, the little slip collor, no oil in the diff,and like you said bearings. Just that the bearing are the last thing to look at, not that they dont go out just one of last things to go. You could pull your tube and axle. To check the collar. It is not to hard cause you are a 96 with the flange style CVs. Its only like 15 bolts all together and you dont need to drop the center chunk to do it. Worth investagating.


The switch is on top of the transfer case has a 3 vacume lines going to it. Here is the part
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Transfer-Case-Switch-Motormite_17190751-P_2315_R|GRP60008_725228803___
it just locks and unlocks the front diff(If you are three button). If it is bad the ball on the end will not seal out all the vacume. Locking and unlocking the frond diff at random not good.

Were are you at just wish i could be of more help because i went though a huge ordeal like this with my moms blazer. And it was the switch fixed. noise went away then it was the collar from driving with a bad switch for to long. I love to work on cars just not very good with words.

Where you at in the world?

 

even though it's not an issue anymore (since the problem seems to have been figured out), yes alphawolf, you would need to drop the diff to do the bearings.

 

colummbus, ohio. so now you think that the collar is bad also? your problably right. is it hard to get? do you know the name of it so when i call to get one? just kind strange that the noise didnt change once i unplugged the vacum line. every thing i have read on here people talked about having a clicking noise when that switch was the problem. mine has always been growling. to be honest its a long story, the tires were just replaced when we started hearing the noise, thought it was just the new tires, then i new it wasnt them, replaced both hubs, ect. its been a real nightmear, lol. thanks again for all your help. i was getting ready to replace the front diff bearings. hope this takes care of it. justnow need to get the collar and switch.

 

The cable could be partially bound up not allowing it to return all the way.