I'll ask here too.

I've got a loud popping and banging in the front end. So far, I've replaced the front differential, both CV axles, both hubs, upper and lower ball joints on both sides, both inner and outer tie rod ends, transfer case and even the front driveshaft CV joint. The sound persists.

What it's doing is making a popping and banging with the speed of the vehicle. It does it the most when turning hard, like when parking. It makes the noise when accelerating or decelerating. After about 40mph, it can be felt but not heard.

It didn't just happen, it started a few months ago and got worse. It used to only do it on hard acceleration, but it got to the point where it does it all the time. I don't know what else it could be.

1997 Oldsmobile Bravada, awd, 3.73 diff

 

Ah, o.k.

Apart from checking the suspension and steering I'd look in to the engine mounts and further back have a look at the transmission and transfer case support.

Engine mounts can cause this too when worn or broken. Not sure if sagging engine mounts could make it touch the frame on acceleration/deceleration due to the moment induced.

 

It does this even if I'm not accelerating hard. I can just let off the brake, turn hard and it does this. I'll try to get a video shortly.

 

Update

I disconnected the front driveshaft from the front diff and tried turning hard in both directions. I didn't go very far, only about 20-30 feet or so in forward and reverse, hard turns to both sides. No popping. Reattached the driveshaft, pops and bangs again. Last thing left that could be making it do this? U joint (s) on the front shaft. They're fairly cheap, like $14.99 at AutoZone for moog. I'll be getting both to be sure.

Final question. The OEM joints look like the kind that don't have snap rings. They look like the kind with the little plastic pin holding them together. How do you get those out?
I remember hearing my dad say something about using a torch on his K1500 Silverado (93) to get the old ones out. Is that the same with these?

 

Same deal as the k1500. They are locked in with nylon. Heat around the caps with a torch, and watch for the nylon squeezing out of the passageway. Once it stops, press or hammer the ujoints out.

 

Will a handheld propane or map gas torch work, or does it have to be an oxy acetylene torch?

 

I've always used map gas. Propane would be plenty too, although would take a bit longer.

 

Feeling defeated here. There's some kind of link in between the front driveshaft u joints that's the actual problem. I'm tired of throwing money and parts at this. I'll have to get another from a junkyard. AutoZone wants $1,324 for one. Lel I can replace the vehicle for less than that.

Closest, cheapest junkyard is 100+ miles away, but they have it pulled. I'll just get it shipped.

 

What are you using for a repair manual? According to my GM service manual all the joints appear to be repairable.

 

It's in the circle, the part with the dot. There's a link inside that's bad. The u joints weren't the problem either. I could reach the joints just fine I could even remove them, but the link inside is what's bad. I don't know what it's called. There's a grease fitting that feeds grease to it.