First thing first I have replaced, the ball joints, swaybar links and idler arm and 1/4 turn on the gearbox adjuster. Took it to the alignment shop and they did the alignment. ever thing should be good right? Well Wrong. When i drive down the road the front end wants to float right or left (not pull) almost like the wind is really strong and it is blowing the blazer off road. When Im on a nice flat road it wont do it as much, only if the road is rough or rounded. I have had this on the hoist myself at my shop and noone can figure this out. I have had other shops look at this and noone can give me a good answer. Everything is tight underneath, so why is it doing this?? and Im not just talkin about the little bit of play most blazers usually have Im talking this dont feel safe driving down the road. I do have big rims and wide tires, and I have putt the stock tires and rims on to see if that changed anything but it didnt. I have been told by a couple older guys that it is possible that my gear box is worn out and that is the cause. anyone have any suggestions?? and yes the control arms are tight too.

 

I have the same problem. I replaced upper and lower ball joints, upper control arm bushings, inner and outer tire rod ends, sway bar links and bushings, wheel bearings, idler arm, shocks, brakes, rotors and calipers, I have even swapped out steering boxes. and alignment with no luck. The only things that have not been replaced are the pitman arm and lower control arm bushings(which are both tight). I also replaced everything on the rear also(except the leaf springs). any ideas would be great to hear. Only a few more parts to go but if I don't have to change all of them then I don't want to.

 

Change the rag joint on the steering shaft. I KNOW.. it might not LOOK worn out or needing to be replaced, but it was the last thing i replaced and it should have been done first.

 

after changing everything including the torsion bar links (part number 15996064) finally decided to check the torsion bar height it was way off. I leveled them and it is no where near as bad as it was my driver side was over 1 inch lower than the passenger side. its back at the alignment place now will update when i pick it up in a while got it back from the alignment guy and he said that my tires were no good he said broken belts so i bought other ones and helped a little bit but not that much. I have doubled checked everything and am now convinced that my cheap $20 shocks are causing the problem. i can shake the blazer with very little effort. i am going to get some stiffer shocks and try that. i will update when i get them

 

I have the same issue too, and replaced pitman idlerarms, upper lower ball joints both sides, inner and outter tie rods both sides same problem still, so changed drivers side upper control arm bushings because they looked buggered and still nothing, did alignment and had to do a back yard one after beccause it made it worst, buddy has a typhoon and it was doing the same and took it in to find out the torsion bars were lowered past what they should be so they fixed that and no problem, mine on the other hand same old bs. i also took out my sway bar for 4x4ing and it didn't get any worst or better. shocks were replaced last year with monroes and ya.. that's my list of parts for the same problem

 

does anyone have a part number for the rag joint??? last part to replace. the cheap shocks were most of the problem I went with Monroe Reflex LT Monotube Shock Absorber for the front and Monroe® Sensa-Trac load assist for the back and if you buy three u get the fourth free http://www.monroe.com/promo/document..._rebate_US.pdf

 

Lol... I did as all of you have said also, and basically re-built my frontend.
I replaced my front shocks also... with Monroe Sensa-Tracs.

And after doing ALL that... Decided to take it to a different alignment shop than the one i had been using all along... believe it or not, which was the local Chevy dealership.

I found out Toyota was doing alignments $10 cheaper... and the guy there told me it had been being aligned wrong... it was set at 0.0 left - 0.5 toe in right.

He said that a ZR2 should be set at 0.25 toe out left - 0.25 toe out right. Which causes negative scrub, and makes it naturally track straight as an arrow, and it stops the "floating". Just keep the tires rotated well... You will be able to feel the "river bedding" and know when to do it.

He was absolutely correct.

 

the part number for the rag joint is 31002 made by dorman in the help isle at autozone here are a couple pics of it now we all know what to get