Hi everyone. I just had the lower left ball joint replaced a few months ago and I had to replace the grease fitting to a 45 degree fitting to be able to grease it myself when I change the oil (last 2 greasings were done by a mechanic. They said they were able to because they have grease guns that can reach in difficult places.). This one went in just fine (maybe a little difficult because of space, but it is snug as I can make it while still being able to get to it.) and I was able to pump enough grease in it to inflate the boot as with the other ball joints, but when I went to replace the one on the idler arm on the end that bolts to the frame, a 90 degree fitting won't fit. It is too loose to be able to screw into it. They are metric grease fittings and they look like the same size as the other ones. Only real difference is that the straight ones have a tapered end and the 45 and 90 degree fittings have a flat end on the threads. What could be the reason why they fit the ball joint, but not the idler arm, but the straight fittings fit both? Should I get the SAE fittings and try those?

 

Well.. ye-ah.
What choice have you got?

I suggest going to NAPa if there's one close, they should have the largest selection.

BTW, if you're going to do a regular 'lube maintenance, AFTER the install {where you SHOULD lube before install- last couple I did had almost no lube out of box} dont pump until you see it inflate, pump until you see it barely move.
More is not better.
And EVERY oil change?!!!!!

I'm 68 yo, wrenched a little bit, and I propose that more BJ and tie ends are ruined by regular lubeshop jerks blowing out boots and spreader bars than wear out. But that's just me. YMMV

Just found one on my Brava, Sunday.. vertical split in TRE boot, packed full of grease. $%$$@##$$@! **** a-wipes!

 

Yup, all mine are busted thanks to one visit to a fast lube shop, because I didn't have time to change the oil before we left for the beach.. I grease and rub em' every oil change and it still pisses me off. Are they hard to replace, cause mine have been busted for years, I just keep em lubed good.

 

ALL of them?! If they are broken, how do you grease them? Those lube shops are no good anyway. You always end up doing more work then if you had done it yourself. I used to go to express lube places, but "better" ones and not chain places like JiffyLube or Walmart. Ended up at the best case cleaning grease off the seat (difficult enough), mid case having to grease the front end myself (or have another shop do it for between $20-40!) because they "forgot" to do it even though I paid them to do it or worst case finding they didn't put enough oil in it (but not low enough to cause it to have low oil pressure). Thank god I don't trust anyone with this truck and I check all work before I go far from a shop.

Any time I have to go on a long trip and it is close to an oil change, I move it up to just before the trip. Since I started doing my own oil changes a year and a half ago, I never had anyone else do it. Even when I face problems from my mother who tries to force me not to do my own work on my truck (which only turns to arguments and eventually I just do it anyway since I go to college and I have an off campus apartment with enough room in the driveway to do whatever I want on this truck) which is cheaper in the end (even with full synthetic oil and a good filter and greasing the front end right the first time since most shops charge the same price for conventional and a Fram and don't grease the front end and if they do, it is $20-40 more.), I always do basic work like oil changes myself. Anything more than I can handle, I only allow competent mechanics who know the S-10 series inside and out to touch this truck. In fact, I prefer to have shops who have owners or mechanics who drive GM trucks work on it since I have never had problems with those types of shops.

FsTFwRd: With replacing them, it seems that either a 7, 8 or 9mm socket will fit (depending on which part it is and the vehicle). They just unscrew. That is how I got the one on the ball joint out (with a 9mm socket). The one on the idler arm was very difficult, but an 8mm wrench barely fit. But when I went to twist it back on, a 7mm socket (no ratchet) fit it and I was able to make it hand tight. Should be fine until I get a 90 degree fitting that fits.

pettyfog: I will check NAPA. Thanks. So I am using too much grease? I pump like 6 times per part depending on how "inflated" it is, but I have never blown seals. This truck needs constant maintenance with grease since this truck experiences alot of potholes and bumps in this town where they don't maintain the roads. BTW, you aren't alone with ripped tie rod boots. Both of my tie rod end boots were ripped open vertically since I got this car 11/2007. The tie rods don't have play in them at all and I just make sure I pump enough grease until clean stuff comes out to make sure that any dirt that got in got pushed out by the grease. No mechanic wants to replace the boots without replacing the entire tie rod end even though the auto parts stores sell boot kits.