The instructions worked great. I was able to change it out no sweat. I loosened the three bolts on the back of the hub and it popped right out, no extra effort needed...gotta love 2WD.

 

Okay, make me the 4th computer programmer to complete this task.

Things went very smooth. I used a puller, which I picked up at the auto parts store while I was getting the other supplies for this project, since it was only $19 for a 6" 3-jaw puller. I had no problems getting the old hub off at all, the puller helped quite a bit. There was one slight hiccup with the rubber O-ring. I put the O-ring into the slot in the steering knuckle, and held it in place with Vaseline. I put the new hub on, and using the 3 bolts to pull the hub back into the steering knuckle. It wasn't until it was almost all the way on, that I noticed the O-ring had started pushing out the back! So I had to take it back off, but this time I put the O-ring on the new hub instead. This seemed to do the trick.

One thing about the anti-seize. I've read in a couple places to never put anti-seize on the wheel lug bolt threads, and to avoid it in general on bolts that are to be tightened to a specific torque, as well as avoiding any oil or grease on the threads, too. So I only put the anti-seize on the axle splines. I didn't have a problem getting any of the bolts off, which have been there since the truck was new in 2000.

Anyway, thanks!
-- Kevin

 

Another Computer Geek Here... This was the best post i've seen yet :-) The only problem I had was getting the hub assembly off. Tried to do it by hand, then I went to walmart and picked up one of those $30 electric impact guns that plugs into the cigarette lighter. When i bought it i said to myself "there is no way this will be powerful enough" Well sure enought it worked great! a little slow, but it worked. The thing basically spins really really fast, then kicks the socket every few seconds.. very cool

Thanks for posting this howto!

 

Hi i havea 90 fullsized chevy blazer with manual locking hubs. i recently replaced the rear axle and want to put a new front axle in as well but the axle i want to put in has auto locking hubs. i want to put the manual locking hubs on the new axle can you tell me how to do this. Thank you

 

Hanr3 a big thank you for this thread! You saved me a lot of time and money!

 

Well I finally got the new bearings installed on my 2000 LT 4x4. Picked them up at Sadler Power Train on E-Bayfor $57 ea ($129 pr.shipped) with the ABS sensor (Federal Mogul).It was nicegetting rid of that annoying whine I endured for month's before I finally replaced them. This thread was invaluable in helping to make this the easy job it turned out to be. Saved me a bunch of cash as well. Much appreciation to all who contributed, especially Hanr3. I'm certain many others will benefit from this in the future as well, good job and thanks again.

 

My mechanic buddy said to put a drift, or punch, or screw driver through caliper into brake disk vanes. I'm about to try it right now. - matt

p.s. i have a 5 speed, so gotta try something else!

 

Here's a question about this.
I replaced ball joints and wheel bearings today, and when going to stop, the ABS kicks on and I can barely stop at all! I almost rolled thru a stop sign at my corner.
When I slam on the brakes, I stop like I should. But when I hit them lightly, the ABS goes into crazy mode on dry pavement and won't allow me to stop.

Any ideas on this would be much appreciated.

 

Same problem with mine. For a temporary fix pull your ABS fuse (it's a 60 amp in the fuse box on the hood). This will throw your ABS lights on.
Now, to fix the problem - Did you replace the wheel speed sensors when you replaced your hub? they should have came with a new one. Mine is a bad driver side sensor. They're famous for rusting out and getting rust under the sensor which causes it to lift and give a bad reading (in turn locking up the ABS).
Start with looking at the sensors.

 

Thanks, I'll pull that fuse today. I'd hate to plow into somebody in front of me at 5mph!

The hub assy's each came with a new speed sensor. these units were purchased new, so they're rust free. I checked each sensor for resistance and got reasonable results, so I don't know whats happening. Perhaps the front sensors don't jive with the rear sensors?? (ie. rears throw different voltage than the new front ones, thereby engaging the abs?)


Ugh, one more thing to fix.....