So, is there some relationship between caster setting and the amount of lift? It drove better with the stock tires unlifted with horrible alignmnet than now with 31's and 1" torsion lift and an alignment.
It's all set as close to factory spec as I can get it but I think it still needs more. When I did the 1" lift the caseter went from 3* to 0* and it was almost undrivable. I reset it to 3* and it's back to the normal tracking all over the road where it wants to go. I guess I can give it another 2* and see what happens.

I know a wider tire will do this so I'll have to live with it I suppose. I'll also reset toe and set the steering wheel off center to compensate for that as well.
If anyone has any final alignment specs they can post as far as the caster following a T-bar crank and 31's I would appriciate it.

 

The steering wheel and the steering shaft and the steering box are all one position keyed so they cannot be put back in the wrong position. (i.e. they only slide together one way).

The problem most likely is the track rod ends are not set the same. Method is to lock the steering wheel in the central position either by steering lock or (better) using a wheel lock that jams between the seat and the bottom of the steering wheel. THEN you set the tracking by undoing the track rod ends and set the toe in on each side the same. Playing with camber and caster should be done after tracking and does make a slight difference but not as much as tracking, unless it is way out. FYI max of 1/2 inch play in steering but 1/4 inch is better. That is 1/2 or 1/4 each side of straight. Yes there is an adjuster on the steering box (under air cleaner box) but be careful !!! If you tighten it too much it will destroy the steering box internals. Get some one who knows to help if you don't.