New brakes making noises / Pulling
#11
I didn't. The brakes were done by a shop since I didn't have the time to do it myself. They didn't open the system. They just replaced the pads and rotors on the front and cleaned/greased the pins.
It is a bit of a rubbing sound at crawl speeds with the brakes off.
It is a bit of a rubbing sound at crawl speeds with the brakes off.
#12
bring it back to them ... let them fix it . They did the work so why you gotta have the headache figuring it out.
#13
Ok I went back to the shop that did the repairs and they are booked solid for the next 2 weeks, so they can't look at it until then, but they have another location an hour away, so I am going to go there. With the brakes, they think that the pads have some kind of coating or something else from manufacturing on it that is hitting the rotors that will come off on it's own or glazing or a pebble between the pads and the rotor.
I also asked about my U-Joints (another thread) and they said that at close to 120k, it is possible, but that could also be backlash in the gears.
I also asked about my U-Joints (another thread) and they said that at close to 120k, it is possible, but that could also be backlash in the gears.
#14
Update: it is making squealing and scratching noises only below twenty mph and primarily during left turns until I brake. Could this be a a stone trapped in there?
#15
Could be several things....your slide pins seized up....dirty pads.
If i were you i would find a new shop....honestly if i charged someone money for a job and couldnt take ten minutes to check their brakes when they have an issue...that is some sloppy customer service.... i could see if you constantly went back and wastwd their time..but if you take someones money and time you better stand behind your work.
Just my additional two cents.
If i were you i would find a new shop....honestly if i charged someone money for a job and couldnt take ten minutes to check their brakes when they have an issue...that is some sloppy customer service.... i could see if you constantly went back and wastwd their time..but if you take someones money and time you better stand behind your work.
Just my additional two cents.
#16
Shouldn't be any "coating" on the pads, and a "pebble"???? sounds like they're blowing you off. 98 Jimmy has 4 wheel disc brakes, check the temp of both rear rotors after a normal stop from about 40mph.
#17
Could be several things....your slide pins seized up....dirty pads.
If i were you i would find a new shop....honestly if i charged someone money for a job and couldnt take ten minutes to check their brakes when they have an issue...that is some sloppy customer service.... i could see if you constantly went back and wastwd their time..but if you take someones money and time you better stand behind your work.
Just my additional two cents.
If i were you i would find a new shop....honestly if i charged someone money for a job and couldnt take ten minutes to check their brakes when they have an issue...that is some sloppy customer service.... i could see if you constantly went back and wastwd their time..but if you take someones money and time you better stand behind your work.
Just my additional two cents.
I wouldnt know a better way to put this
#18
Nobody has mentioned 'marrying the brakes' IE: get up to 30mph & hammer the brakes on, do that 5 times. It marries the new pads to the rotors & is very important in breaking in new pads. If you don't do that they'll be noisy for 500 miles or so at different times expecially with new pads to old rotors.
Also I'd bleed the brakes if even just the front ones. Properly bleeding the brakes is PS rear 1st then DS rear then PS front & finaly DS front. Bleed them until clear fluid runs out & then you know you have no air or old brake fluid in the system.
Also I'd bleed the brakes if even just the front ones. Properly bleeding the brakes is PS rear 1st then DS rear then PS front & finaly DS front. Bleed them until clear fluid runs out & then you know you have no air or old brake fluid in the system.
#19
Warthogdriver: I agree 100%. I am going somewhere else to fix this. With the pins I was told that they cleaned them up and regreased them.
CaptainHook: Both front brakes after a stop from 40 were around 100-110F. The rear right rotor was a bit hotter at 150, but the left was around 100. I had that checked and they were not sticking or anything like that. The rear brakes work fine.
Rottidog: What?!?! Not even the shop mentioned this. So could I have ruined these pads by not breaking them in? I drive this truck in town where hard stops are commonplace, so I hammered these a few times to prevent an accident. I had the rotors replaced at the same time since it seemed like cheap insurance. The fluid has been flushed many times and most places I go to test the pedal and don't believe it is needed.
Yea I drove the truck on the highway and while it was stopping properly, anytime I turned the wheel left at up to 40mph or even straight at lower speeds, I would hear a scraping noise coming from the front left. Like nails on a chalkboard. I already checked the front axle level a few days ago and it is full. I had the wheel bearings checked just before they put the brakes in and they found no problems. I even set the parking brake and move the truck (parking brake doesn't work) and there is no change in sound. I did a visual inspection through the wheels and all the pads look fine and there were no gouges in the rotor. Lower temps seem to rule out the brakes sticking.
CaptainHook: Both front brakes after a stop from 40 were around 100-110F. The rear right rotor was a bit hotter at 150, but the left was around 100. I had that checked and they were not sticking or anything like that. The rear brakes work fine.
Rottidog: What?!?! Not even the shop mentioned this. So could I have ruined these pads by not breaking them in? I drive this truck in town where hard stops are commonplace, so I hammered these a few times to prevent an accident. I had the rotors replaced at the same time since it seemed like cheap insurance. The fluid has been flushed many times and most places I go to test the pedal and don't believe it is needed.
Yea I drove the truck on the highway and while it was stopping properly, anytime I turned the wheel left at up to 40mph or even straight at lower speeds, I would hear a scraping noise coming from the front left. Like nails on a chalkboard. I already checked the front axle level a few days ago and it is full. I had the wheel bearings checked just before they put the brakes in and they found no problems. I even set the parking brake and move the truck (parking brake doesn't work) and there is no change in sound. I did a visual inspection through the wheels and all the pads look fine and there were no gouges in the rotor. Lower temps seem to rule out the brakes sticking.
Last edited by ComputerNerdBD; 05-13-2012 at 12:05 AM.
#20
If they weren't married properly the rotors would probably look glazed.
What about the tie rod end interfering with the dust plate? It seems like something is loose & moving backwards &/or inwards when you turn.
Have you had the front end on jack stands (block the rear tires when doing this & E brake is a good idea too) & gotten under to see what moves when in relation to other parts when someone turns the wheel?
What about the tie rod end interfering with the dust plate? It seems like something is loose & moving backwards &/or inwards when you turn.
Have you had the front end on jack stands (block the rear tires when doing this & E brake is a good idea too) & gotten under to see what moves when in relation to other parts when someone turns the wheel?