Hi all,

I am stuck.

I can't get the pitman arm separated from the center-link on my 1999 4wd 4-dr Blazer.

Here is what I have tried with no success:

• Pickle-fork and 6-lb hammer, from two different angles*: no effect
• Air hammer and pickle-fork attachment from two different angles*: no effect
• Hammer on stud from below: no effect
• ball-joint removal tool: couldn't get it to fit due to lack of space
  

My next step is to use some CRC Freeze Off and hope that between the penetrating oil part of it and the rapid cooling effect it could have on the stud, it will break free. This pitman arm has been on this Blazer since at least 2008 and I suspect it might be the original.

Do any of you have any other suggestions?

*) I did check that the pickle-fork gap was larger than the width of the new stud.

 

I don't have much experience on my Blazer, as it sits at camp and I haven't even been there in a while but for my F-250, there is a special pitman arm remover that fits in the tight spot. These can be borrowed from one of several parts stores around me. One of the advantages of living where I do. Though, it might be specifically for the steering box end of the arm, IDK. I have found that putting a tool on there that applies pressure, like a tie rod end removal tool or pittman arm removal tool and then giving it a good whack with a hammer got me going where nothing else would.

 

You gave me an idea to get a pickle fork wedged into the joint and then give it a wack with a hammer.

Thank!

 

Oh Christine... when I installed the RC kit and pulled the front diff out I wanted to take out the center link for more space and of course, this required taking the pitman arm off the center link. I had everything else disconnected from the center link but that darn pitman arm. I spent most of a whole day I think trying everything to get it off, even broke my air hammer pitchfork right in half in the end. I used my air hammer with a pitchfork, every different pitch fork size I have, I tried. I tried a pickle fork then just wacking with a hammer. Sprayed religiously with wd and also tried heating it up with a torch. In the end, I gave up because I couldn't even get it to move the smallest bit after all I tried and pulled the diff with it still in. I'll be following this to see what ends up working for you, good luck!

 

Like others have said, put some pressure on it, then whack it with a hammer. Don't hit the stud, though. Hit the side of the center link at a right angle to the hole the stud goes through (if that makes sense). The goal is to slightly distort the tapered hole so the stud will pop free. I haven't seen one yet that this method didn't work on.

 

Update: I got it off!!!!!

Yesterday I tried out my air hammer with a pickle fork attachment. I also tried using the CRC Freeze-Off. It didn't get the stud as cold as I thought it would based on my memory of when I used it on my rear spring shackles. I hoped that the change in temperature might help breaking the connection.

With the air hammer, the pickle-fork would get stuck and so with it under tension with the pickle-fork wedged in the gap, I also tried hammering on it with my 1-lb hammer. I couldn't really get a good angle on it, having to use an old 1/2" socket extension. I tried this several times from the front and from the side. No luck.

Then I decided to look at the GM Service Manual again. They mentioned that the tool to use as their J-24319-B tool. I thought it was just another specialty tool that was superfluous. But I was desperate. So I started to see if there was one to rent or buy in town. Nope! Not even NAPA! Then I saw that it was part of a $90 kit of pullers, of which I already had a couple, at Harbor Freight. The guy at NAPA said that his experience has been for the home-mechanic, the quality of their pullers was plenty fine and they were plenty strong. (If NAPA had had it, it would alone cost over $70!)

So off to the next town over (20 mile round trip) to get the kit from Harbor Freight.

So this it what finally worked.

At first I tried to get at the stud on the centerlink with the wheels pointing forward. This did not allow the puller to get on straight. I then turned the wheels to swing the pitman arm so that the centerlink stud was to the drivers side by turning the steering wheel to the right.

I was able to reach up behind the lower control arm and get it on.

I don't like using tools that apply force gradually to an attachment that breaks apart suddenly, as when it does, it happens fast.

In this case it wasn't so bad.

Below are the pictures I took when I first started putting pressure on it and then right after it broke free. Note that I had already loosened the steering gear from the frame with only the lower/forward bolt holding it in loosely. This might have helped me get a better angle onto the pitman arm stud. I also had the tool rotated about 45 degrees about the stud. I was a bit worried that there might not be enough "bite" by the claws but it obviously was enough for me.

You will see with the last pictures that the tool is actually quite substantial.

Now I'll have to decide what to do with extra pullers I have that are duplicated in the kit! Note: You can find these online so if you plan to do this, try to buy one at a good price ahead of time!

Edit: I forgot to add that I needed a cheater bar on my 1/2 drive ratchet wrench to get enough force on the tool. I also just now was able to get the puller started on the removal of the pitman arm from the steering gear. I used the air impact driver to get the nut on the steering gear off. It quite a bit of messing around with a large crow-bar to get the steering gear rearranged so I could get at the pitman arm shaft nut. Funny, in all my excitement I haven't yet double checked that it was the stud socket that was loose. No going back now no matter how it is! LOL Instead I have to get cleaned up and do some office work this afternoon. Ugh!


Just starting to apply pressure.



Immediately after the stud broke free and the tool dropped.

The tool kit. Harbor Freight: https://www.harborfreight.com/front-...-pc-56807.html



Puller next to new pitman arm for comparison of size and orientation when used.

 

Congratulations. I'll bet that felt good.

 

Yes it did!! I even let out a Woop! :-)

 

I knew you would get it one way or another! So when it goes back together are you doing the 1 ton idler arm as well?

 

Thanks!

As for the 1ton idler arm, that is a whole other story! In short, there have been issues with the fitment of both the idler arm adapter bracket and the idler arm itself.