Pitman and Idler arm replacement
#22
11-03-2009, 05:13 PM
dont heat anything up. go buy a tie rod separator .. looks like this .. and an electric impact..
those tools... $80 for both at harbor freight, knuckles that are not bleeding ... priceless
use that and an electric impact wrench and everything pops right off no problem
you can use it on ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler and it doesnt destroy the boots.
with this tool and the electric impact, i can take my front end down to nothing in less than an hour. I tell you what, i wish i would have had this combo for the last 10 years... UNBELIEVABLE how easy all those parts come off with this combo.
I dont know why the hell they even make pickle forks, or more important, why people say you need one. just silly
those tools... $80 for both at harbor freight, knuckles that are not bleeding ... priceless
use that and an electric impact wrench and everything pops right off no problem
you can use it on ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler and it doesnt destroy the boots.
with this tool and the electric impact, i can take my front end down to nothing in less than an hour. I tell you what, i wish i would have had this combo for the last 10 years... UNBELIEVABLE how easy all those parts come off with this combo.
I dont know why the hell they even make pickle forks, or more important, why people say you need one. just silly
I checked your pic and it is a $144 tool from etoolcart.com used to separate tie rod ends from steering knuckle on Chrysler Import vehicles, LH, JA, NS and Dakota Trucks.... http://www.etoolcart.com/tierodballjointseparator.aspx
Can you provide a model # for HF? Was it identical to the pic?
I could only find this... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=1752
#24
07-18-2010, 08:18 AM
About how much would it cost me to replace the idler arm and pitman arm in the local auto shop? I have not much time canvassing so I figured asking in the forums. Thanks.
Last edited by michaelross; 07-19-2010 at 08:49 PM.
#27
09-27-2011, 03:58 PM
I agree the air hammer and fork are the best i have found so far but I havent used the other seperator yet so maybe ill grab one. either way its better than beating a fork with a hammer.
#29
10-18-2011, 08:57 AM
Hint: #3 plug?
I saw that separator at my HF yesterday.
I bought a huge ball peen instead. Already have an old sledge head, I'm set. Somehow mislaid my old pro framing hammer.
Gotta say this..
is far better than this..
Which I have lying around somewhere, freaking USELESS for anything other than a pitman arm, unless the knuckle is exactly the right size!
And I'll still use the hammer, of course... skip to last step of directions:
If joint still does not separate..
"Hit side of knuckle sharply with heavy hammer"
Last edited by pettyfog; 10-18-2011 at 11:37 AM.
#30
10-18-2011, 09:31 PM
one some of the newer chevys its pretty easy. they have the inner tie rod ends that bolt on the center drag link. so if your taking off the idler/pitman arm i just take the center link out with the idler/pitman arm still attached them take them out in a vise. i dont think you can do that in some of the older stuff cause of the same inner and outer tie rods.
you dont have to remove the gear box from the truck but you will have to remove it from the frame. just unbolt it and twist it till you can get access to the bolt with a impact and puller. but this only works if you do have a impact if you try using a breaker bar youll just twist the lines and steering shaft. did one on a express van yesterday. that pitman arm was the most seized i ever seen. had to keep impacting and beating it with a hammer but eventually came off
you dont have to remove the gear box from the truck but you will have to remove it from the frame. just unbolt it and twist it till you can get access to the bolt with a impact and puller. but this only works if you do have a impact if you try using a breaker bar youll just twist the lines and steering shaft. did one on a express van yesterday. that pitman arm was the most seized i ever seen. had to keep impacting and beating it with a hammer but eventually came off