Rear Axle Shaft Replacement: suggestions?
Hi all,
It looks as if my right rear axle shaft is bent, at least at the flange where the rotor mounts. I am pretty sure this is the source of my highway speed vibration.
Do any of you have advice or hints and tricks for doing this? Is this something that might be best done by a professional due to the hassle involved? I have the GM Service Manual for instructions. New shafts look to run about $275.
If I were to to it, it would have be outside in my sloping driveway due to my garage being not wide enough to slide the axle out.
Thanks
It looks as if my right rear axle shaft is bent, at least at the flange where the rotor mounts. I am pretty sure this is the source of my highway speed vibration.
Do any of you have advice or hints and tricks for doing this? Is this something that might be best done by a professional due to the hassle involved? I have the GM Service Manual for instructions. New shafts look to run about $275.
If I were to to it, it would have be outside in my sloping driveway due to my garage being not wide enough to slide the axle out.
Thanks
Doing the job outside always complicates matters, but it isn't all that difficult overall.
Are you considering doing both axle shafts or just the one with run-out and replacing the seal/bearing on the other side? Your call really if the other shaft is still good from a run-out stand point. The only unknown would be whether there is seal wear on the shaft that could cause a leak down the road. There are different seals (named 'problem solvers' if memory serves me) that move the sealing surface just a bit to an unworn area.
If you have another vehicle to drive just in case you have an issue with parts not being correct or some other issue with the repair, go for it! It is rewarding to do this kind of in-depth surgery!
Are you considering doing both axle shafts or just the one with run-out and replacing the seal/bearing on the other side? Your call really if the other shaft is still good from a run-out stand point. The only unknown would be whether there is seal wear on the shaft that could cause a leak down the road. There are different seals (named 'problem solvers' if memory serves me) that move the sealing surface just a bit to an unworn area.
If you have another vehicle to drive just in case you have an issue with parts not being correct or some other issue with the repair, go for it! It is rewarding to do this kind of in-depth surgery!
Doing the job outside always complicates matters, but it isn't all that difficult overall.
Are you considering doing both axle shafts or just the one with run-out and replacing the seal/bearing on the other side? Your call really if the other shaft is still good from a run-out stand point. The only unknown would be whether there is seal wear on the shaft that could cause a leak down the road. There are different seals (named 'problem solvers' if memory serves me) that move the sealing surface just a bit to an unworn area.
If you have another vehicle to drive just in case you have an issue with parts not being correct or some other issue with the repair, go for it! It is rewarding to do this kind of in-depth surgery!
Are you considering doing both axle shafts or just the one with run-out and replacing the seal/bearing on the other side? Your call really if the other shaft is still good from a run-out stand point. The only unknown would be whether there is seal wear on the shaft that could cause a leak down the road. There are different seals (named 'problem solvers' if memory serves me) that move the sealing surface just a bit to an unworn area.
If you have another vehicle to drive just in case you have an issue with parts not being correct or some other issue with the repair, go for it! It is rewarding to do this kind of in-depth surgery!
I was considering replacing just the one bad axle and replace the bearing and seal on that side. I hadn't considered replacing anything on the other side. I haven't noticed any leaks on either side.
Looking at the instructions in the service manual and after watching a video it looked like a pretty straightforward job. Your comments confirmed this for me which I very much appreciated.
It is funny you mentioned having another vehicle available or not. My normal DD, my 82 Prelude, is laid up at the moment. I'm waiting on replacement parts for the shifter linkage. The backup is my 68 Mustang which is is drivable but I need to replace the tires which are 30 y.o. which means I would only use it locally. Good thing my town is small!
Hi all,
I've decided to replace the rear axle shaft myself. I don't think it will be too hard. (Thanks for the encouragement Swartlkk!)
Now I have to decide what brand I should use. Are there any I should avoid? I keep coming across Yukon and Dorman. What others are there? Anyone have thoughts on ones to avoid?
Thanks
I've decided to replace the rear axle shaft myself. I don't think it will be too hard. (Thanks for the encouragement Swartlkk!)
Now I have to decide what brand I should use. Are there any I should avoid? I keep coming across Yukon and Dorman. What others are there? Anyone have thoughts on ones to avoid?
Thanks
Hi all,
I've decided to replace the rear axle shaft myself. I don't think it will be too hard. (Thanks for the encouragement Swartlkk!)
Now I have to decide what brand I should use. Are there any I should avoid? I keep coming across Yukon and Dorman. What others are there? Anyone have thoughts on ones to avoid?
Thanks
I've decided to replace the rear axle shaft myself. I don't think it will be too hard. (Thanks for the encouragement Swartlkk!)
Now I have to decide what brand I should use. Are there any I should avoid? I keep coming across Yukon and Dorman. What others are there? Anyone have thoughts on ones to avoid?
Thanks
I called USA standard to confirm correct part number and they were helpful over the phone . It fit like original . Can’t vouch for extra strength or longevity as this truck is stock and doesn’t get a lot of use , but the part was fine .
Last edited by lexblaze; Sep 13, 2025 at 09:38 PM.
Hi Christine, I replaced the rear bearings and found it to be very simple, and straightforward, and it didn't take too long.
I bought a slide hammer and bearing puller set to remove the bearings. I did both sides at the same time, I like both bearings to be the same age. A seal puller is also nice to have, and a bearing press kit would also be helpful. But I suppose a screwdriver would work to remove the seal, and a large socket like maybe for the front axle might fit the seal and bearing for installation.
For me, the correct seal is not entirely clear. The axle is supposed to be stamped with either a C or a K, but I didn't see a stamp. I went with K and it doesn't leak. This is a good opportunity to upgrade the differential fluid to fully synthetic.
It seems to me that somehow I didn't get the diff cover installed properly, it looks to me like it is leaking. If I were to do it again I would probably use aviation gasket goop on both the cover and the differential, and maybe try to find a better gasket.
Either that, or maybe consider buying a replacement diff cover. Often times the cover is deformed especially around the bolt holes. I always try to flatten the cover before installation, and I use a pushrod to reshape the holes, but maybe this does more harm than good.
I bought a slide hammer and bearing puller set to remove the bearings. I did both sides at the same time, I like both bearings to be the same age. A seal puller is also nice to have, and a bearing press kit would also be helpful. But I suppose a screwdriver would work to remove the seal, and a large socket like maybe for the front axle might fit the seal and bearing for installation.
For me, the correct seal is not entirely clear. The axle is supposed to be stamped with either a C or a K, but I didn't see a stamp. I went with K and it doesn't leak. This is a good opportunity to upgrade the differential fluid to fully synthetic.
It seems to me that somehow I didn't get the diff cover installed properly, it looks to me like it is leaking. If I were to do it again I would probably use aviation gasket goop on both the cover and the differential, and maybe try to find a better gasket.
Either that, or maybe consider buying a replacement diff cover. Often times the cover is deformed especially around the bolt holes. I always try to flatten the cover before installation, and I use a pushrod to reshape the holes, but maybe this does more harm than good.
Last edited by Stovey; Sep 15, 2025 at 08:32 AM.
I recently replaced one on my S10 PU and used a USA Standard gear one from Rock auto . It included bearing , seal and lug nuts all together . It came in with a Yukon sticker on the end . Seems like it’s a Yukon part without the available Yukon long warranty .
I called USA standard to confirm correct part number and they were helpful over the phone . It fit like original . Can’t vouch for extra strength or longevity as this truck is stock and doesn’t get a lot of use , but the part was fine .
I called USA standard to confirm correct part number and they were helpful over the phone . It fit like original . Can’t vouch for extra strength or longevity as this truck is stock and doesn’t get a lot of use , but the part was fine .
Hi Christine, I replaced the rear bearings and found it to be very simple, and straightforward, and it didn't take too long.
I bought a slide hammer and bearing puller set to remove the bearings. I did both sides at the same time, I like both bearings to be the same age. A seal puller is also nice to have, and a bearing press kit would also be helpful. But I suppose a screwdriver would work to remove the seal, and a large socket like maybe for the front axle might fit the seal and bearing for installation.
For me, the correct seal is not entirely clear. The axle is supposed to be stamped with either a C or a K, but I didn't see a stamp. I went with K and it doesn't leak. This is a good opportunity to upgrade the differential fluid to fully synthetic.
It seems to me that somehow I didn't get the diff cover installed properly, it looks to me like it is leaking. If I were to do it again I would probably use aviation gasket goop on both the cover and the differential, and maybe try to find a better gasket.
Either that, or maybe consider buying a replacement diff cover. Often times the cover is deformed especially around the bolt holes. I always try to flatten the cover before installation, and I use a pushrod to reshape the holes, but maybe this does more harm than good.
I bought a slide hammer and bearing puller set to remove the bearings. I did both sides at the same time, I like both bearings to be the same age. A seal puller is also nice to have, and a bearing press kit would also be helpful. But I suppose a screwdriver would work to remove the seal, and a large socket like maybe for the front axle might fit the seal and bearing for installation.
For me, the correct seal is not entirely clear. The axle is supposed to be stamped with either a C or a K, but I didn't see a stamp. I went with K and it doesn't leak. This is a good opportunity to upgrade the differential fluid to fully synthetic.
It seems to me that somehow I didn't get the diff cover installed properly, it looks to me like it is leaking. If I were to do it again I would probably use aviation gasket goop on both the cover and the differential, and maybe try to find a better gasket.
Either that, or maybe consider buying a replacement diff cover. Often times the cover is deformed especially around the bolt holes. I always try to flatten the cover before installation, and I use a pushrod to reshape the holes, but maybe this does more harm than good.
I like the idea of doing both bearings and seals at the same time.
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