FYI, all ZR2's came with 3.73 gears. Mine was a very easy swap as far as the rear ZR2 axle goes. I didn't have to change anything with the U-joints on my swap. I just got the rear axle and front diff together from a ZR2, and swapped both in to replace my GU6 factory diff's. The rear axle I did alone in about an hour and a half in the driveway with hand tools.

The front diff is tricky to get out, but once you have it out it's not a big deal either. For me I went from a '96 front diff to a '99 so I also had to upgrade my front CV axles to match. The older style are not compatible with the newer diffs.

You will notice a little difference with the 3.73 gears, but if you're running 33's I'd suggest you at least consider 4.10's, especially if you're offroading. With my 32's I do wish I had a bit more low end torque.

 

Another question I have since mine is lifted do you think I gotta mess with the length of the drive shaft? Because my axle now is under my leafs. Would the 4.10s give me horrible gas mileage?

 

The ZR2 axle won't affect the length of the drive shaft. If it works on your current axle then you'll be fine. As for the mileage I'm betting it 4.10's would improve your economy. You have 3.42's now which are built for 235/70/15's (about 28" tall) but you have 33's. The 4.10 will get you close to a stock end drive ratio. Remember also that your 33's are a whole lot heavier than stock wheels & tires, so you're turning more mass. The lower gears will definitely help, especially around town, offroading, and accelerating. Even on the highway I think they'll help.

 

thank you everyone for all the help!

these are my plans
i found a 8.8 4.10L with discs the junkyard said he will sell it for 150
then the drive shaft yoke off the ford.

now for the front can i take my drive shaft off and drive it until i get the front gears changed to 4.10s?
also where should i get the gears for the front?

 

I was told that it is possible to remove the front
Driveshaft and still drive with out any leakage
Or problems. The transfer case is internally sealed so no fluid will come out.this is for the
3 button 233 and 4 button 236 transfer case.

 

Alright good I have the 3 button

I might just focus on the rear axle for now, so I can get it back on the road.

Thank you I just wanna make sure I can 4.10 gears for the front before I buy the axle

 

i dont know for sure. but it cant be hard to find out.

 

I believe as long as you don't engage the 4x4 you don't need to remove the front drive shaft, as it is disengaged until use. Someone correct me if I'm wrong though.

 

With the 231 transfer case that is defiantly true..
The 233 3 button transfer case im almost certain. But the 4 button 236 with the Auto button, the drive shaft turns all the time. So I would say search the forum a bit more, or someone else jump in and clear this matter up. I was under the idea that because the 236 transfer case has cluthes inside the front driveshaft will need to be removed

 

I would remove the front driveshaft just because then I'd be 100% sure that it won't harm anything and no chance of forgetting or accidentally engaging the 4x4.