rear brake caliper
#1
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i just replaced the rear passenger side caliper because it was leaking from the boot. my plan was to take the old one off and walk down to the parts store with the core and pick up the new one.
this morning i got the old one off very easily, and since its bitter cold here i went back inside to warm up. since the store didn't open yet i just chilled for a little bit browsing the forums. i came across a thread about a member replacing his rear caliper and did what i did and ran his master cylinder dry. then i read the part about not taking the old one off until you have the new one to swap out immediately, so now im like "ohh great" since its been off the vehicle for about 45 minutes.
i went back out and checked my master cylinder and the reservoir was empty. i quickly grabbed some fluid and added some. when i poured it in it only filled the reservoir, i bolted the old caliper back on for the time being while i walked to the parts store. now the new one is on and everything is back together and attempting to bleed the pedal gets firm and i have fluid coming out of the bleeder screw in the rear but i noticed the piston has not pushed the pad against the rotor but pedal gets firm. so i fear i have the same problem. however i do have a scan tool how do i run the automated bleed for the ABS system?
this morning i got the old one off very easily, and since its bitter cold here i went back inside to warm up. since the store didn't open yet i just chilled for a little bit browsing the forums. i came across a thread about a member replacing his rear caliper and did what i did and ran his master cylinder dry. then i read the part about not taking the old one off until you have the new one to swap out immediately, so now im like "ohh great" since its been off the vehicle for about 45 minutes.
i went back out and checked my master cylinder and the reservoir was empty. i quickly grabbed some fluid and added some. when i poured it in it only filled the reservoir, i bolted the old caliper back on for the time being while i walked to the parts store. now the new one is on and everything is back together and attempting to bleed the pedal gets firm and i have fluid coming out of the bleeder screw in the rear but i noticed the piston has not pushed the pad against the rotor but pedal gets firm. so i fear i have the same problem. however i do have a scan tool how do i run the automated bleed for the ABS system?
Last edited by sky_blazer; 01-29-2016 at 12:55 PM.
#2
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If your scan tool is capable of accessing the EBCM, the instructions will be on the screen, just follow the prompts.
Most of the time you can bleed the system, without the automated bleed, by gravity bleeding. Pumping the pedal to bleed this system only causes more problems.
Most of the time you can bleed the system, without the automated bleed, by gravity bleeding. Pumping the pedal to bleed this system only causes more problems.
#3
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If your scan tool is capable of accessing the EBCM, the instructions will be on the screen, just follow the prompts.
Most of the time you can bleed the system, without the automated bleed, by gravity bleeding. Pumping the pedal to bleed this system only causes more problems.
Most of the time you can bleed the system, without the automated bleed, by gravity bleeding. Pumping the pedal to bleed this system only causes more problems.
#4
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so i got the back brakes to a point no bubbles were coming out, but i could not break the front bleeders loose so i got 2 new front calipers and im gonna replace them tomorrow and try the whole bleeding thing all over again
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#5
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so i got the new calipers on and i tried to bleed with a helper which just went on and on so im trying the gravity bleed procedure and im noticing bubble after bubble after bubble on my first one. there is like 20 big bubbles coming down the tube and has been for the past 20 minutes is this normal?
what im doing is first i topped off the master cylinder, then i put cap back on but did not turn it tight, pumped up the brakes, then i attached a clear tube to the right rear bleeder screw, and cracked the bleeder screw loose, when the little jug becomes full i close the screw and dump the fluid back into the reservoir of the master cylinder. the fluid in my car was recently changed so the fluid wasnt bad it just has air in it
am i good? or am i doing it wrong? im used to the other way of using a helper so this is new to me
what im doing is first i topped off the master cylinder, then i put cap back on but did not turn it tight, pumped up the brakes, then i attached a clear tube to the right rear bleeder screw, and cracked the bleeder screw loose, when the little jug becomes full i close the screw and dump the fluid back into the reservoir of the master cylinder. the fluid in my car was recently changed so the fluid wasnt bad it just has air in it
am i good? or am i doing it wrong? im used to the other way of using a helper so this is new to me
#6
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Fill the master and leave the cover off. DO NOT let it run dry. DO NOT pump the pedal. Open one rear bleeder and let it run until it comes out clear with no bubbles. You will only bleed one caliper at a time. No need to put a hose on the bleeder, just watch the fluid as it exits the bleeder. When it runs clear, shut the bleeder. When the fluid comes out, dump it out, don't reuse it. Depending on how much air is in the system, it can take a while, 20 minutes is no surprise. The master needs to bleed, EBCM needs to bleed, the lines, and the caliper. The first rear caliper will take the longest. The other rear caliper will take far less time because you're only bleeding from the Tee in the rear, to the caliper. When both bleeders run clear, make sure the bleeders are shut, and repeat the process on the fronts, one at a time. DO NOT let the master run dry. DO NOT pump the pedal through the entire procedure. After all 4 bleeders run clear, and the master is full, slowly apply and release the brake pedal until firm, (this will extend the caliper pistons). Have an assistant apply firm pressure to the pedal, don't pump it. Quickly open and close a bleeder. The object here is do not allow the pedal to go to the floor. Release pedal pressure, and repeat. This should only take one or two times for the fluid to exit clear. Repeat on each caliper.
Last edited by Captain Hook; 01-30-2016 at 08:21 AM.
#8
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well Hook once again you rule, after 2 hours gravity bleeding the back brakes i finally got the fluid to come out clear and no bubbles and i have firm brake pressure. truck even has better acceleration because i believe the old caliper on the front was dragging.
you are very knowledgeable about these trucks and look forward to your input on my next repair
you are very knowledgeable about these trucks and look forward to your input on my next repair
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