Crap.
How do I remove the spider gears and ring gear? No clips/ bolts that I can see for the spiders, as for the ring, I'm 90% certain I busted my socket wench trying to loosen those bolts on the side of it. Good thing it's craftsman, free replacement lol

 

There's a little bolt that goes in from the side to hold the cross pin. Once you take the cross pin out, you can push the axles in (have to take the brake drums off first) and remove the c-clips. Then you can rotate the spiders out. You have to leave the side gears in to hold the axles. Installation is the reverse of removal.

 

I'll try and find it when I go back downstairs, thank you

 

Good luck. The locking bolt will be near one end of the pin, so you might have to rotate the diff to see it. It should have like a 5/16" head on it, and expect it to be pretty tight. I usually have to put a 5/16 box wrench on it and tap it with a hammer to break it loose.

 

So, update. I had to put everything all back together to move my car, (landlord), took the opportunity to have a friend outside and 1 inside to listen for the grinding noise I mentioned that started this whole party. They all agree it's coming from the drivers-side, rear. And again, it's ONLY when I let off the gas. If it can be anything other than the diff, please let me know. I would dearly love to be wrong

 

I'm wondering if it's the axle bearing.

 

If it was a bearing, wouldn't it constantly be making a noise and/ or grinding? You'd never know there was an issue til I let off the gas, and then it becomes glaringly obvious something ain't right

 

Pull that axle and check the bearing first before a full tear down, torque against it will pull on the slack and when released of torque it rattles around. you have to pull it anyways and it beats a full tear down if not needed.

 

Oh! I don't know why I forgot this, but it's also pissing gear oil out of the front of the diff, where the yoke enters, as well as from the bottom of the cover in back. Now, I redid the gasket back there, as well as tightened it down just fine. Sorry, this whole thing has me frazzled as hell >.<

 

Can this work with a 98 as well? I Just checked that sticker and at top left is my vin then far right is another 2 letters and 5 digits.In the then lines of 3 or 4 characters ( 1 letter and 2 or 3 number) bunches about 8 in each of the 10 lines.11 line starts with BB/CC then towards the middle is a U then 333D and at the end of that line 64A.
example; 1fhgt294mfrujr5738t5m CS10506

AU6 TU6 2FH 4GK 7LS 7 AKF WO1 AKE QTW WR3
D03 WR2 WY4 WL5 CM1 DLW AO3 SLA WKT 2KE
DK3 RI7 QO3 QP5 QH2 AOQ2 WI3 WI3 QP9 MN4 1MH

BB/CC U 333D <<<<<< ACTUAL LAST LINE

i diff totally taken apart and am going to change my pinion as well as all the bearing from rim in. U-joint is already changed and now I have to figure out how to get it back together with " pull our parts" parts, buy the whole rear end or buy a rebuild kit I just heard about on here that I wasn.t aware of. It all started with that "rubbing or humming noise" one day after I hosed it down. I thought I loosened up a mud shield or something but no. Started with adding diff juice then changed it. then wheel bearing. then u-joints and finally outer pinion bearing. Noise was still there so I dismantled everything and damaged the end of pinion so now I know I need that. Carrior and ring gears look good. But I don't know what to do now. Pricing things right now but thinking easier to pull axle bite the bullit and pay for juckyard rearend. ANY HELP APPRECIATED. I am an electrician and little auto knowledge.