I have a huge crack in my transfer case in my 96 blazer so I purchased a transfer case from a salvage yard I was wondering if there are any gaskets that needed to be replaced or any certain processes that I need to go through to make sure this transfer case is installed properly not a huge head ache
Thanks For reading!

 

It would not be a bad idea to replace the seals on the two output shafts since you have the "new" case still out of the car. I pulled apart a 97 Blazer for parts recently and was a bit surprised to find transmission fluid in the connecting collar between the Tcase and the transmission. There was a fair amount in there that basically drained onto my head as soon as I separated the two. I did not have much trouble separating them so I dont think there was a gasket there, but there were no drips along the seam that might have indicated fluid buildup in that area. So like I said, I was a bit surprised. When I swap it into my Bravada, I am planning on putting a bead of RTV along the bottom lip to ensure that no transmission fluid leaks out after I do the swap. Other than that I dont think there are any "special" gaskets to replace. The only trick that I found helpful was removing the transmission cross member. I dont know if it is required to remove, but I cant imagine how you would get the tcase out with the crossmember still in there. I have not done the swap yet, but the only thing that I would do to help with assembly would be to get my hands on a yolk that fits the rear output splines so that you can rotate the Tcase while trying to line it up with the transmission splines.

Can anyone else comment on how bad it is for the transmission and/or the Tcase to let the Tcase sit on the output shaft while lining up the bolts?

 

I really need the answer to this as well. I was driving my 96 Blazer with full time all wheel drive and heard noises. I pulled over to the side of the road and noticed a burning smell and then tried to put it in drive and heard alot of grinding. I got it towed to my home and when trying to get it off of the flatbed, only the rear wheels would turn. I had a guy look at it and he told me it may be my transfer case and I needed to get it swapped. he also took the front drive shaft off and now none of the wheels move. So will replacing the TC correct the issue?? Dont know... Oh and by the way, when the front wheels are off of the ground they can be turned by hand but when they are back on the ground, they will not move at all...

 

If your front wheels dont move with the front driveshaft removed, then you have a problem with your front diff not the tcase. There may also be a problem with the Tcase, but you cant diagnose it (unless the case is cracked) until you can drive it with a working front diff. If you can turn the wheel with the front end up in the air, does the other wheel turn the same direction or the opposite direction? If the other wheel is on the ground does the input shaft spin? (where the front drive shaft connects) What happens when the car is in the air and the steering wheel is fully turned? Can you still rotate the wheels?

By the sound of it, you may have broken a tooth on the front ring/pinion set. This could have wedged itself when backing it down from the flatbed. With the front end up you would be able to turn the wheels, but the other wheel would spin the opposite direction because it is just the spiders that are rotating. The burning smell could have been the clutches roasting in the Tcase or it could have been your front diff roasting because it has run dry of lube. Drain the front diff and the Tcase. Observe the fluid color and condition and get back to us. Metal flakes (if present) = source of the problem. If you need a ring and pinion set for the front end, I just so happen to have one in mint condition. Unfortunately the case they are in has a busted mounting ring, so you would have to take it somewhere to be properly set up in your case unless you have experience doing that sort of work.

If you need a Tcase, changing it for a junk yard unit is about a days worth of work with 4 stands.

Let us know what you find.
-William

 

Thanks William, when the tires are in the air they do turn in the opposite direction. The input shaft also does not spin by hand when the car is on the ground or in the air. I will see about getting the fluid drained either today or tomorrow. And I will get back to you with that one. Huge help with this one, I had a feeling that replacing just the transfer case would not correct the issue but the guy I had looking at it insisted on it.

 

After you drain the fluid you will have a better idea of what is wrong. Also look for lubricant leaks. Either from the seals or the case half seams. The front drive shaft output seal is around the splined shaft on the transfer case so you can actually drive the car with the front drive shaft removed. Obviously the front end needs to be free. Another experiment you can try would be to jack up the rear and see if everything works, put it in D and run up to 60 or 70 mph. Cover the brake with your left foot just in case it comes off the stands. If there is anything hard that is broken in the Tcase you will know right away and probably wont get up to those speeds.

EDIT: If you want to do this experiment, make sure you do it before you drain the tcase lube.

-William

 

Well I broke down and took the truck to a shop, they took the front axels out and now they say that the front diff is broken, transfer case needs to be replaced and a new one to the job, they say my transmission is now gone. He told me that it may have gone out when the diff broke. Is this something that can happen or am I being milked for labor and parts in this weak economy/

 

blazergeek1775
There is a gasket between the t-case and ranny and there's supposed to be fluid in there. There is no rear transmission seal. Depending on whats wrong with it why not just overhaul it yourself? Oh well, you've already bought another one. Get a Factory Manual for your t-case model (doesn't matter the year just the model for the parts and it'll tell step by step how to do it. I would replace the front input seal (if you can get the screws loose and the front driveshaft and rear seal. Any part of it you split that doesn't have a gasket I recommend red locktite (can't remember the number but it ain't cheap) and don't go overboard by plastering it on too thick. Also check to see if your Vehicle Speed Sensor is the same. If not use the old one. You can play around with jacks and the like but I found a hefty buddy works the best. A new mount probably isn't a bad idea either. Mine was wasted. This job really isn't that difficult with a little help from your friends. Check and grease the U-joints while you're there. Keep us posted.