I just got this blazer and this is the first time I have had a truck with torsion bars and they dont seem right.

The drivers side looks to be 90% lowered or unscrewed and the passenger side is almost all the way cranked up but the truck appears to set level to the eye. I would think they are supposed to be equal unless they are broken or the frame is twisted or something awful like that?

The ride is stiff and the bump steer is pretty bad but I don't know how its supposed to feel.

Please shed some light on this because I don't want any excessive wear or for something to break as I drive this truck daily.

Thanks

 

Could be something broken, frame, torsion bar, torsion bar key, etc. You'll need to get under there and check things out. Front chassis ride height should at least be checked, and then adjusted if necessary.

Front chassis ride height is the vertical distance between the lower-most inboard point of the steering knuckle, (near the ball joint), to the center of the lower control arm pivot bolt. Measurements must be taken with the vehicle normally loaded, on a level surface. After adjustment, a wheel alignment is necessary.

1996 & newer:
4WD (except ZR2) = 4.6” to 5.0” (4.8” is preferred)
4WD ZR2 = 4.6” to 5.2” (4.9” is preferred)

 

Thanks for the info I will be sure to measure that sunday when I start working on it again. But should the torsion keys be equally screwed in on a stock setup?

 

Usually they are close. If a bar is removed, and then installed incorrectly, the exposed thread length will be different. Also, if a bar is replaced, it must be the correct bar, ie. the bars must match. When the vehicle is assembled at the factory, the bars are computer picked according to what accessories are on the vehicle, (with or without A/C, automatic or manual trans etc etc). A torsion bar stores energy when it is twisted. The stored energy is what lifts and holds the front of the vehicle up. A coil spring stores energy when it's compressed. Coil springs are not adjustable, torsion bars are.

Edit: Gotta be careful when working with torsion bars. The stored energy is what holds the front of your 3,000 pound vehicle up. They make a helluva bang when they break or let loose

 

as stated above, the inside of the keys could be worn out or the torsion bars ends. or they could be weak and saggy. i had the same issue with one side having more turns than the other and when i put my lift in and replace the keys, the inside of the keys were worn and sloppy on the end of the torsion bar, when i set up the front end with the new keys they were pretty close to even on both sides.

 

Well I measured the distance between the lower ball joints and the ground and it was within an 1/8" so I guess it must be that the passenger side is worn and has been adjusted to compensate.

 

Lower ***** to the ground should be exactly the same on both sides, you're essentially measuring the wheel & tire If it's different, you probably have different size tires or wheels. Gotta measure the verticle distance between the knuckle and the control arm bolt. Easiest to measure from the knuckle to the ground and the bolt to the ground. Then subtract knuckle to ground measurement from the bolt to the ground measurement. Gotta be sitting level on the ground, can't jack it up.