Not to sound like a smart *** but are you turning it the right way?? I bought this set a few years ago for my landrover. Its a bit of a POS as far as quality goes but for as little as I use it its fine for me!! I would prefer a 6 point set but owell I'm not going to complain since it hasn't let me down yet. The complete set is less than what you will pay for 1 of the larger sockets at most places. It has a breaker bar in it as well and I have added about a 2.5' piece of pipe to mine for extra leverage. When I bought mine they were sold in a red steel case not that plastic thing they are in now. Plus it has a lifetime warranty so if it ever breaks I'll take it back for a new one

 

Is one side a left hand thread? If so then I might not be although it looked to be a normal thread and I've tried both ways as often tightening it a little breaks the rust bond. I'm borrowing a 3/4" set (as soon as my somewhat chaotic farmer neighbour can find it!) but I might have to put a 3/4" set on my christmas list.

 

no left hand threads - did mine myself about 6 month ago - bent a 1/2 breaker bar with a pipe on it. Let PB BLASTER sit on the treads for a few hours beforehand - PB Blaster is the only penetrating oil I've ever used that actually lived up to the hype on its label. To date I've never had to touch a torch to get something off. (patience yes - apply blaster daily for a week etc)

Other tool i used was a cheap impact wrench - never got the nut moving with it but the hammering action seemed to help the oil penetrate or something because i could be standing (jumping) on the breaker bar before using the impact and after using it the nut started to turn with only an aggressive 3 grunt force (no jumping).

 

I had this issue helping a friend replace a cv joint on a car. We broke 3, 1/2" bars,and it still wouldnt budge with me standing on a piece of pipe. Ended up taking the whole spindle to a shop and he had it off in 2 min with a heavy impact gun. Im willing to bet someone replaced something before you got it and used a impact gun and overtorqued it.

 

Got it off eventually after penetrating oil, some heat and a 3/4" drive socket and bar with all 300lbs of me bouncing on the end of it. The bolts holding the solid part of the brake caliper and the hub were all loctited on and took heat and a lot of persuasion to undo but its off, the new one is on, just need to spray some underbody schutz on the bit of frame that I scraped the flaky stuff off and painted and stick the wheel back on and torque up the hub nut.

 

ive only once had problems getting a axle nut off, it was on a 83 s10 blazer, i dont know why it was such a pain, i actually cut off the tip of the axle so i could get a shallow socket on it not to have it strip off and like a 8 foot breaker bar and had to jump on it to get it to break,

now with a impact they always come off. heating them up could probably work too, sometimes the tie rod lock nuts are stuck as heck and get them red hot and they become hand tight