When should I rebuild my front end?
#1
Starting Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 1

Title says it all. It seems that rebuilding the front end is a common practice for blazers. When should it be done and apx how much would it cost for a shop to do it vs. Diy
Thanks a bunch!
Thanks a bunch!
#2
I just got finished ordering all the parts for a complete 4x4 front end tune up. All Moog parts except Energy suspension bushings and sway bar end links from RockAuto.
35207R (3.5207R)Stabilizer Bar Bushing$ 32.79$ 0.001$ 32.79
33119G (3.3119G)Control Arm Bushing$ 52.79$ 0.001$ 52.79
K5320Ball Joint$ 26.79$ 0.002$ 53.58
K5335Ball Joint$ 23.79$ 0.002$ 47.58
ES3462Tie Rod End$ 37.79$ 0.002$ 75.58
ES3584Tie Rod End$ 44.79$ 0.002$ 89.58
K6255Pitman Arm$ 40.79$ 0.001$ 40.79
K6251TIdler Arm$ 40.79$ 0.001$ 40.79 These parts were 50% less than the local parts house !! I have over 191,000 and my control arm bushings are squeaky and cracked,and alignment tech suggested new ball joints. I got the new pitman arm for my Jeep grand Cherokee steering box 12.7to 1 ratio over stock ratio of 14 to 1. http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref29.html
35207R (3.5207R)Stabilizer Bar Bushing$ 32.79$ 0.001$ 32.79
33119G (3.3119G)Control Arm Bushing$ 52.79$ 0.001$ 52.79
K5320Ball Joint$ 26.79$ 0.002$ 53.58
K5335Ball Joint$ 23.79$ 0.002$ 47.58
ES3462Tie Rod End$ 37.79$ 0.002$ 75.58
ES3584Tie Rod End$ 44.79$ 0.002$ 89.58
K6255Pitman Arm$ 40.79$ 0.001$ 40.79
K6251TIdler Arm$ 40.79$ 0.001$ 40.79 These parts were 50% less than the local parts house !! I have over 191,000 and my control arm bushings are squeaky and cracked,and alignment tech suggested new ball joints. I got the new pitman arm for my Jeep grand Cherokee steering box 12.7to 1 ratio over stock ratio of 14 to 1. http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref29.html
Last edited by 2004 Blazer; 08-03-2016 at 08:58 PM. Reason: add
#3
I rebuilt my front end using a complete kit from Power Performance at 175k miles. It really didn't need it but I had the funds and the time to do it myself.
The way I looked at it, I could piece meal it when things required when I didn't really have the time or the funds or do it all at once. I now have over 260k miles on it and haven't had any problems. As I recall, I spent about $400 for everything, including new hubs.
The way I looked at it, I could piece meal it when things required when I didn't really have the time or the funds or do it all at once. I now have over 260k miles on it and haven't had any problems. As I recall, I spent about $400 for everything, including new hubs.
#4
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: North GA, USA
Posts: 325

When to rebuild the front end? In my experience, it's not a mileage based thing. Rebuild (replace all joints, bushings and moving parts, including shocks) when you start getting the "old truck shakes."
If you catch worn parts before the thing starts shaking, you can get by with replacing things as they get worn. Once the shaking starts, it massively accelerates wear on all parts. At that point, replacing the most worn out parts might only reduce (not eliminate) the shake. The shakes/shimmies that remain will continue to wear all the parts, including the newly replaced parts.
Replacing all ball joints, control arm bushings, idler arm, tie rod ends, shocks, etc. will eliminate the shake completely, and it will drive like a new truck for another 100K+ miles before there are issues.
If you haven't reached the point where it's starting to shake, you can start amassing parts for the eventual rebuild, taking advantage of closeout pricing and sales. Just be sure you're getting high quality parts (Moog "problem solver" parts are great, there are other good sources as well).
I usually gather all the parts over some time, and when the shaking is at my limit for comfort/safety, and my tires are worn and I'm going to put new tires on it, I'll do the full rebuild at that point, and have the new tires installed immediately after the front end rebuild, and a final professional alignment check on a good alignment rack.
If you catch worn parts before the thing starts shaking, you can get by with replacing things as they get worn. Once the shaking starts, it massively accelerates wear on all parts. At that point, replacing the most worn out parts might only reduce (not eliminate) the shake. The shakes/shimmies that remain will continue to wear all the parts, including the newly replaced parts.
Replacing all ball joints, control arm bushings, idler arm, tie rod ends, shocks, etc. will eliminate the shake completely, and it will drive like a new truck for another 100K+ miles before there are issues.
If you haven't reached the point where it's starting to shake, you can start amassing parts for the eventual rebuild, taking advantage of closeout pricing and sales. Just be sure you're getting high quality parts (Moog "problem solver" parts are great, there are other good sources as well).
I usually gather all the parts over some time, and when the shaking is at my limit for comfort/safety, and my tires are worn and I'm going to put new tires on it, I'll do the full rebuild at that point, and have the new tires installed immediately after the front end rebuild, and a final professional alignment check on a good alignment rack.
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