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Zr2 vs. Non zr2

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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 10:49 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Logan
You do not need to remove steering shaft on my ZR2 to get at the #3 plug.
Yeah, I think this is true for any lifted Blazer, as I discovered the same to be true after my body lift was installed -- two weeks after I changed the spark plugs! DOH!

However, you still don't have to remove the steering shaft. When it was stock height, I used a combination of two universal extensions. You have to take your time, but it works, and is a helluva lot easier than removing the steering column.
 

Last edited by Psychropod; Dec 4, 2009 at 11:09 AM. Reason: Added the tip at the end.
Old Dec 4, 2009 | 02:57 PM
  #32  
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Sorry if this is off topic, but I'm thinking about getting a Blazer, and deciding on model. Does the ZR2 have a limited slip or locking rear diff? And is it practical to clear 33's on a ZR2? I see Logan is running 33s. I want an everyday driver than I can setup to pull the quads out to the trails, and ride the trails out to the weekend bonfires. Just wondering if a ZR2 would be a better platform to start with than a regular Blazer.
 
Old Dec 4, 2009 | 05:35 PM
  #33  
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The ZR2 will roll off the line stock with 31x10.5's so right there you have jumped past regular blazers with anything short of (on average) +2" up front, +2" in the rear AND a 2" body lift. ZR2, while not made to be king of the trails, is leaps and bounds ahead of stock, and highly capable. as for the rear end, G80 Gov-lock. you will find a few articles and posts running through the pros and cons of this style axle. It is a "locking differential" but is not a 'locker'. it's a bit confusing, but better than nothing, and better than limited slip. Read it up. you'll see.
 
Old Dec 4, 2009 | 06:52 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Psychropod
However, you still don't have to remove the steering shaft. When it was stock height, I used a combination of two universal extensions. You have to take your time, but it works, and is a helluva lot easier than removing the steering column.
yeah, i've never understood why people say this is how you have to do it. or the ones that say you have to removethe tire to get @ it either, just crank it to the right, works just fine.
 
Old Dec 4, 2009 | 09:09 PM
  #35  
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Ill I needed on my ZR2 was the 2" torsion bar crank, and add a leaf in the rear to clear 33's.


And im picking my new axles up next sunday. Dana 44's from a 1980 Wagoneer. Then ill rebuild them over the next few months. Im putting an air locker in the front, and a lock rite in the rear with 4.10:1 gears.
 
Old Dec 6, 2009 | 06:15 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by ABN31B
The ZR2 will roll off the line stock with 31x10.5's so right there you have jumped past regular blazers with anything short of (on average) +2" up front, +2" in the rear AND a 2" body lift.
I dont know about all that, my 2" body lift clears my 31's no problem... no other kind of lift.

although, i am about to stick a set of zr2 torsion bars in to stiffen up the front a bit.


a zr2 was my dream, but i had to settle for a 4dr wanna be z.
 
Old Dec 6, 2009 | 07:41 PM
  #37  
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thats why i said (on average) then listed the mods
 
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