help plz might be off topic.
#4
10-21-2007, 08:14 PM
RE: help plz might be off topic.
Ah well, I just got your PM on this subject and suggested you post in the forums for a better response.
I too would think balljoints, tie-rod ends (although these usually exhibit more steering issues than noise issues), or a broken sway bar end link. The sway bar end link is pretty easy to diagnose as all you have to do is look underneith and see if it is still connected.
With the ball joints, well, the lowers can be checked by first raising the front of the vehicle and supporting it on either side with jack stands. Then take a 6+ foot long 2x4 on edge under the suspect tire. Lift and listen for a pop or clunk noise. If you hear it, the lower is bad. Next, remove the wheel on the suspected side and pry up on the upper control arm with a pry bar between the steering knuckle and the control arm. Again, if you hear a pop or clunk, the ball joint is bad.
And no need to do anything with the torsion bar to change them.
One other thing that I just thought of is the hood rattle TSB (technical service bulletin). GM has a TSB that suggests that some rattling/popping noises can be caused by the rear hinge of the hood rattling. The solution is a conical washer that gets installed on the hinge bolt to tighten up the joint. There should be a thread somewhere around here with the part numbers. Shouldn't cost more than $2 from the dealer for 2 of these washers.
I too would think balljoints, tie-rod ends (although these usually exhibit more steering issues than noise issues), or a broken sway bar end link. The sway bar end link is pretty easy to diagnose as all you have to do is look underneith and see if it is still connected.
With the ball joints, well, the lowers can be checked by first raising the front of the vehicle and supporting it on either side with jack stands. Then take a 6+ foot long 2x4 on edge under the suspect tire. Lift and listen for a pop or clunk noise. If you hear it, the lower is bad. Next, remove the wheel on the suspected side and pry up on the upper control arm with a pry bar between the steering knuckle and the control arm. Again, if you hear a pop or clunk, the ball joint is bad.
And no need to do anything with the torsion bar to change them.
One other thing that I just thought of is the hood rattle TSB (technical service bulletin). GM has a TSB that suggests that some rattling/popping noises can be caused by the rear hinge of the hood rattling. The solution is a conical washer that gets installed on the hinge bolt to tighten up the joint. There should be a thread somewhere around here with the part numbers. Shouldn't cost more than $2 from the dealer for 2 of these washers.
#8
10-21-2007, 10:49 PM
RE: help plz might be off topic.
Just wait until you're elbow deep in it and can't get the rivets out!! LOL The two biggest pains about swapping out the ball joints are the rivets (if original) and the pushing out of the axle from the drive shaft from the wheel bearing assembly to get enough room to remove the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle.
#10
10-22-2007, 04:00 PM
RE: help plz might be off topic.
i do all my work myself but not ball joints. i did them once and thats it, no more..lol
about that hood noise....
do you think you could mistake that for a doorpin knock?
i load my doorpins with silicone grease and still they knock when i hit bumps. but now im not sure if its the pins or not.
about that hood noise....
do you think you could mistake that for a doorpin knock?
i load my doorpins with silicone grease and still they knock when i hit bumps. but now im not sure if its the pins or not.
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epitaphoftwilight
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
4
04-05-2007 03:18 AM
