Alright, it is almost time for the snow to start to fly and i'm in need of new tires. I was origionaly going to order 30x9.50 BFG's and be done with it. But then again that isn't as much fun. Soo i was going to get the 31x10.'s orbigger but for fear of rubbing i would go with a 2in lift. So my true questions are is anyonewiththe setup of the larger tires and lift noticing majordecreases in power (don't care about mileage it sucks anyways) and should i go the body lift rout or theTB crank and shackels. It is my DD but i probably only put 6,000+ miles on it per year due to my close proximaty to work and school.
Thanks 00' 4dr 4.3L 4x4 80,000
Michael

 

I didn't notice that much of a difference in power. As far as a lift, shackles/t-bar would be easier and cheaper than a BL. I have 1.5" shackels and about 1.5" t-bars cranked and it still rides pretty smooth. But I also live in the suburbs and the roads are all pretty nice. I would suggest doing both 2" BL and 1.5/2" shackels /t-bars cranked. You would be able to clear 31's with ease and never have to worry about rubbing. Or could get 32's or 33's depending on how much you want to trim.

 

Ok, so for right now couldi get away with 31" BFG with a 1.5 in crank and shackles? If i did both it might have to wait till spring. If so, what kind of rubbing am i looking at? Also with me only putting 6,000 miles + on it per year is the TB crank really going to pose a threat? Thanks a ton for your help.
Michael

 

actually.... in the long run body lift would be cheaper, tb crank will eventually wear out steering components if you go more then 1".

 

Well really a t-bar crank will wear components faster and more than stock height, its probably just faster and more noticable at greater than 1". I can fit 30x9.5" tires on my blazer stock height ('98 4x4 4DR). You shouldn't rub with 31" tires and a 1.5" tbar crank/rear shackles. It could be possible to rub when doing extreme turning or off road manauvers but probably not.

For a DD I would recommend the Body Lift (you keep the same stock ride characteristics, at least suspension wise and you won't wear out any front end suspension components faster). A T-bar crank would get your overall clearance higher ( a body lift will only lift your frame as much as the difference in tire sidewall height). So with 31" tires you will get a 1" lift from just tires (since it is a 2" diameter increase over stock = 1" larger radius = 1" more ground clearance). With a T-bar crank you would get that 1" plus whatever you crank the t-bars to in front and the height of the shackles in the rear (most likely 2-2.5" in the front and 2-3" in the rear more of frame to ground clearance).

The big decision for you is do you want a reliable DD and not have to throw money at the front end components or do you want a more aggresive look and better off road clearance?

This is just my opinion and some of the stuff I learned while researching this topic, I just ended up going with 30" tires (1/2" of lift) and leaving the suspension alone (Mine is also my DD and I put on 10,000-12,000 miles a year because of school and work). Hope this helps you out.

 

Thanks alot guys for all you help. I might just go with 31s and the body lift because it is my DD and the ware that the TB crank puts on the front end. I already have to replace the infamous lower ball joints over the holidays. Cant wait for that, but old trusty Haynes never steers you wrong (and i'll have help). Thanks again and if anyboudy had good expirence with a certain body lift kit ie. (quality, ease of assembly, price,) feel free to let me know, i'm researching them but its hard to pick one over another.
Michael

 

I have a performance accesories body lift. A lot of people go with them and they are good. comes with everything you need. Instructions are pretty good also. It was my first time doing a body lift and I managed to do it by myself over a weekend.