Its not that any of us are getting pissed off. More so annoyed by the situation.
I have explained of why already.

 

I am at the point where I am ready to remove these
Do I need a special "fuel line" wrench, or can I get it with a crescent?



Absolutely correct that this truck has been sitting for "about two years. This time, I really want to earnestly do something about it.

I also want to add that many knowledgeable Blazer people have told me I have a Blown Head Gasket, based on my videos, and everything I have presented. I think I did leave out this detail.. as I was accused of "not knowing what problem I have." richphotos, not only did you point out that it was known by other members a long time ago (two-year window at this point, yes, on the other Blazer forum too and I should share this post there) but I had a pro Blazer guy on Youtube state enthusiasticly that he KNOWS it is a blown HG.. so, that also is responsible for why I put the ad up. I since took the ad down.

 

I wouldn't recommend a crescent wrench unless you want to round off the fittings and waste even more time and money. An open end wrench could be used, but can also round off the fittings if they are being stubborn. I use on anything that has a captured fitting that I really do not want to risk damaging.


As far as what you have been told by others on this site and elsewhere, this is speculation by people that are hundreds if not thousands of miles away. If that is good enough for you, then so be it. I have never once said that everyone else is wrong about it being the head gasket, just that it is up to you to verify their assumptions using the information I have provided you with (e.g., compression & leak down test). One thing I try hard not to do is say part X is at fault. Rather, I try to give you the information to come to that conclusion yourself.


You had asked whether a compression test can/should be done with the amount of water leaking into the cylinder. My response would be to drain the cooling system such that there is no longer water entering the cylinder prior to running the compression test. A leak down test can be completed with water entering the cylinder as the engine is only rotated enough (typically by hand using a wrench on the balancer bolt) to close off the intake & exhaust valve on the suspect cylinder, then the cylinder is pressurized with air and the four main leak paths (intake, exhaust, crankcase, & radiator) are checked for signs of air leaking into them.


There isn't anything on here that is worth getting pissed off about. To me it is about going where my time can best be utilized. When I feel that my time can be better spent elsewhere, I will move along.

 

 

Turns out it was a 16mm fuel line.

I bought a 15/17mm Flare Wrench, and a 16/18mm Flare Wrench.. Returned this one. So the fuel lines are off now...

 

I guess they will be easier to properly unscrew now...

 

Also... When this is all done, I might MAYBE get this hood. Hopefully they have not sold it.
parting out 1989 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer 2dr custom hood

 

^^ Well, I missed the boat on that custom hood. (What kind of hood is that? That exact kind? It isn't too tall, so that's the one I want. That kind.)

I have begun disassembly of the head of the engine, then it would make logical sense to get the heads checked out, and go from there.

 

As I am getting help putting the engine back together and etc, I hope that this LARGE leak is from somewhere simple, like a loose or busted trans line.

Your thoughts on what this could be?

 

I merged this with your other thread since it was at the top. That is clearly the transmission line leaking.

Sounds like you still got a pretty good knock too.