I'm pretty much stuck with the exact same problem.

Unfortunately no time to inverstigate. Will be on it next week.
Had it for body and paint work and the guys ran it down to empty on gas. Sometimes before it did only start when cold but not when warm or hot.

Water in the fuel? It's been outside for a couple months with an empty tank (condensation).

Anybody a good way to purge the fuel system? A good spot to split the fuel lines?

 

Found the time to fix it.

SYMPTOMS
Key to RUN - Fuel pump would pump until pressure is achieved and stop.
Key to START - Engine would crank fine (new battery) every 2 - 3 seconds start and die right away while continuing to crank.
MIL stays ON during cranking which is normal as some parameters have not been reached yet.
Engine would try to start every 3 - 5 seconds and die right away again.

CHECKS
Ignition fired
Fuel was injected during cranking.
Now we had all three: air - fuel - ignition but obviously something is still wrong.

EXPANDED CHECKS
Removed spark plugs - all black (heat rating 6) Two of them showed arching at the tips which could indicate bad connectivity from the ignition wires.
Removed distributor cap - Central pin was used quite a bit, the 6 electrodes showed quite a bit of wear and buildup consistent with the mileage of 170'000 and being the first cap.

REPLACEMENTS
Distributor cap with a new one
All spark plugs

CLEANINGS
Distributor finger - gave it a thorough cleaning to remove all the excess carbon deposit from the central pin, sanded the fingers tip avoiding to shorten it.

PROBLEM SOLVED
Yes - running fine now. I'll run it for a while again to see if errors pop up again.

Good luck to all with the same problem.

 

I changed a next new rotor, dist.cap and IC module..Still the same .

 

You said that you had the car for body work.

What exactly has been done there? As the problems started after that.

Just another thought: Has something been welded on your car?

BTW: Where are you from?

PM me for German, French, Italian ... I'm sitting in Switzerland
And I may help out as I have an original service and diagnostics manual for the 1st gen 1994 S10.

 

I checked my engine again, spider and regulator..and- Engine dies from much of gasoline
What I can do ? change the spider or try do something with ECM ?

 

Yours looks like a problem hard to locate.

Could be located in several places. What comes to my mind is:
- Electronics (most of the time sensor related - e.g. bad water temp sensor etc.)
- Vacuum (sometimes a leaking hose or simply fallen off a connector can mess up fuel metering)
- Mechanical (have it checked for compression, check coolant for oil, check oil for coolant leaking into it)

I would suggest:

- try to get a hold on an OBD Scanner and read out all fault codes if there are some (jumpering the connector works as well)
- try to locate, check and make sure all sensors deliver correct output (maybe you need to buy your chev dealer a beer or two)
- try to make sure all mechanical links work correctly, no loose parts, throttle position sensor is correctly fixed
- try to make sure that pre-heat flap and thermal actuator work correctly (maybe remove and try without)
- try to locate "ALL" lines and hoses to and from engine and make sure they are in good shape and have no leaks
- try to get a hold on the ignition (check spark plugs, spark development [use special cable with visor glass] coil etc.)
- try to locate and make sure that ignition timing is correct vs. crank position
- try to make sure that all spark wires are connected in the correct place on the distributor cap

Hope it hints into a good direction. By eliminating as many problems as possible and going back to stock factory cuts the areas down to isolate the problem.

 

bump, My problem was been solved with new ECM module