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1999 Blazer Timing

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  #1  
Old 03-27-2014, 08:23 PM
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Default 1999 Blazer Timing

A year ago or so.... I replaced my intake manifold gasket because it was leaking. Ever since then, my Blazer just has not run the same. I thought it might be my timing because when I replaced the distributor back during the gasket fix.... I'm sure that I didn't do it right. So after reading through a bunch of stuff on this site.... I decided to check the timing. As a side note.... I could start the vehicle and drive it..... it just didn't run very good and I was getting the dreaded P0300 code.

I turned the engine until it was at TDC and then removed the distributor cap and if I remember right.... it was 180 degrees from where it should have been. Unfortunately, I didn't take a picture or mark it. So I removed the distributor and followed the instructions I found on this site and also a video I saw on Youtube. Put everything back together and it would not even start now.

The problem I could see was that as many times as I tried.... I could not get the rotor perfectly lined up with the #6 on the distributor housing. I have attached a couple of pictures. It was either a little to the left or right. I tried to line it up multiple times. Made sure the dimple lined up on the distributor shaft and everything. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong..... any suggestions?

Thanks for your help!
Corey
 
Attached Thumbnails 1999 Blazer Timing-20140327_182259.jpg   1999 Blazer Timing-20140327_182459.jpg  
  #2  
Old 03-27-2014, 08:54 PM
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Are you sure you have the timing marks (both of them) on the harmonic balancer lined up properly? Are you sure it is on the compression stroke?

If you are sure of the above two items, then it is possible that the outer ring of the balancer has slipped. To see if it has, you'll need to pull the balancer bolt so you can see the key way in the balancer. There should be a timing mark lined up with the key way and one about 90 degrees clockwise from the key way. If these do not line up like pictured below, the outer ring has slipped.
 
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Old 03-28-2014, 12:12 AM
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Thanks swartlkk...... that was the key..... compression stroke. I didn't realize the compression stroke happens every two revolutions. Rookie mistake! So it starts again.... but still runs like crap. I've checked compression and it is good on all cylinders. Guess I'll keep reading and troubleshooting.
 
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Old 03-28-2014, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Corey Mondragon
Thanks swartlkk...... that was the key..... compression stroke. I didn't realize the compression stroke happens every two revolutions. Rookie mistake! So it starts again.... but still runs like crap. I've checked compression and it is good on all cylinders. Guess I'll keep reading and troubleshooting.
You also have to have the cam retard set. That must be done by a capable scan tool. The one's from the auto parts stores won't do it. Also, if you disturbed the Crankshaft Position Sensor in any way, you need to have a Crank Variation Relearn done. Again, that takes a capable scan tool and is done after the Cam Retard.

Are you still showing any codes (P0300)? Any others (P1345)?
 
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Old 04-11-2014, 09:23 PM
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Hey rockp2...... sorry for the late reply.... I'm back at it this weekend. So I am getting another code. I should have put that in the first post. P0452 which is a problem with the Evaporative Emission Control. After reading some more..... I believe I might have a problem with low fuel pressure.
 
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Old 04-12-2014, 12:58 PM
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Here is a link that goes into detail P0452 EVAP System Pressure Sensor/Switch Low DTC There is also a video at the end of the page that goes into EXTREME detail if you're interested.
 
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Old 04-13-2014, 10:21 PM
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Thanks rockp2! I'll check it out. I appreciate your help! Now if I can just find the time to work on this.
 
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