After taking my truck to get inspected, I was unable to get it to crank. I had the starter pulled and tested. Both the starter and solenoid tested fine. The battery had plenty of juice as well. After getting it towed, I tried to start it again. It ran fine for 2 days, then won't start or crank again. I have not been able to get it started since. I hope someone here can give me some advice on what my problem might be and what to do.

 

Do you hear a relay click when you turn your key? If not I would start by replacing the starter relay(in the Underhood fuse box)

If the relay is working like it should, I would check all your grounds, and main power wires(clean any corrosion off the ends, dielectric grease, and reconnect) I would also check your 'remote' wire to your starter ( one smaller guage wire that gives signal to your starter solenoid when you turn your key to the start position)

 

The relay is working. I could hear it click and I switched with a new one just to make sure. I am not familiar with where all the ground wires are located.

 

From the neg. Battery terminal down to the top of the right frame rail, and one that goes to the body under the battery tray(if my memory serves me correct) , from the firewall to the engine in back of the right side cylinder head there is a ground strap. There is also a small guage ground wire that serves the starter circuit just about dead center in the firewall(comes down from a wire loom at the top).

 

I notice you had the starter tested but I'm not sure if by "the battery had plenty of juice" means you took it to have it load tested also. If you didn't, I would start there. Measuring the voltage with a volt meter alone is not going to do it. A battery not under load can show full voltage and charge but fail under load. If you didn't have the battery load tested you should take it to an auto parts store and they can load test it for you. I've seen plenty of folks pull their hair out chasing the problem when it was their battery all along. May very well not be your problem, but I would get that part ruled out first. If you don't have a battery charger, ask the auto parts store to fully charge it for you. Autozone does it for free where I am.

You'll want the battery fully charged to do a voltage drop test to check the starting circuit. Lots of videos and written instructions online how to do it (here's one: Voltage Drop Testing ). A bad cable with high resistance could be your problem. If your battery tests well, and the voltage drop test "passes" I would start considering the ignition switch as these trucks are prone to having the ignition switch going bad.

Once I had the small wire that goes to the starter solenoid (that chevyriders mentioned) break when I was at a convenience store right at the terminal. Wasn't visual but once I pushed on it, it was very easy to tell. Pretty sure that was due to a bad motor mount because the wire loom connects to the frame (if I remember correctly). I will tell you that all these test are easier to perform with the passenger side wheel removed.

But have that battery load tested first. Might save you a lot of un-needed work.