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Takes a while to start and sputters till warm

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Old 03-09-2011, 10:57 PM
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Default Takes a while to start and sputters till warm

Hey, I have a 1988 Chevy Blazer 2.8 FI.

I just replaced the plugs and wires and the o2 sensor.

It takes a while for the engine to start up, maybe about 10 cranks each about 5-6 seconds long.

When it does start it sputters and dies unless I give it gas, after it warms up it runs fine and smooth like there is no problem.

I need help fast as I need a this vehicle on the road ASAP.

Thanks!
 
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Old 03-10-2011, 06:46 PM
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What gap did you set the spark plugs to?

When someone cranks, and you watch the injectors spray(take off the air cleaner cap and filter) how do the injectors spray pattern look? Its very difficult to check fuel pressure on these but I'm pretty sure you need 9 to 13 PSI to start especially.

No problems during load on engine?
 
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:08 PM
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I'm having the same issue with my 87 Blazer 4x4 2.8 TBI.... I just replaced all plugs with OEM spec plugs, New Distrubutor and new rotor.... I haven't done the O2 Sensor as he stated, And will check out how the fuel injectors are spraying.

ALso I noticed he said it took him about 5-8 tries to get it started... Mine is not nearly as bad.... I turn the key and it turns about 8-10 times and starts and then idles at very low rpms... After giving it gas and it warms up as he stated it runs great
 
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Old 03-30-2011, 04:10 PM
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most common on these is the tbi dont ever change out the iac or tps it will cause issues always use acdelco parts learned from experience and also if u got more then 150 on the engine time for valve lash adjustment well known on these trucks had 1984 for 8 years had way over 300,000 engine started leaking from oil pan then crashed it second was a 88 i called crazy truck always idled crazy but those were the things i had to replace and that transmission left me strandid 426,000 on a rebuilt trans now i have a 83 ext cab with 161,000 running strong but needs a new intake manifole gasket well know if your leaking oil from back and in need of replacing heating element on carb for sputtering when cold.. sorry about my rambling on just a few tricks of the trade i'd figure i share with ya
 

Last edited by mxpxpunkrock1987; 03-30-2011 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 04-04-2011, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by mxpxpunkrock1987
most common on these is the tbi dont ever change out the iac or tps it will cause issues always use acdelco parts learned from experience and also if u got more then 150 on the engine time for valve lash adjustment well known on these trucks had 1984 for 8 years had way over 300,000 engine started leaking from oil pan then crashed it second was a 88 i called crazy truck always idled crazy but those were the things i had to replace and that transmission left me strandid 426,000 on a rebuilt trans now i have a 83 ext cab with 161,000 running strong but needs a new intake manifole gasket well know if your leaking oil from back and in need of replacing heating element on carb for sputtering when cold.. sorry about my rambling on just a few tricks of the trade i'd figure i share with ya
IAC was my first guess... I'm fairly new to learning mechanics but i do catch on quick, what is TPS? (guess is Throttle Positioning Sensor) Valve lash adjustment would that be something we could do pretty easy or does that get pretty extensive? Also This is TBI, Heating element on Carb? or was that for just one of your old trucks?

I forgot to mention this, Lately the truck has started the idling low then it moves up idles abnormally high ( I can drive down the road and put it into 4th gear and let off the gas and it will keep speed IE 30 MPH) for awhile Then it moves down to idling at a nice steady RPM that I think it should prob be idling at.

Also the Check Engine light comes on a few seconds after start stays on for about 1 minute or so and then goes away, This only happens on occasion. One More thing, a light that says brake came up, There is no release cable for it in the cab nor does the pedal seem to engage you push it down and release and it comes back up does not stay and engage. Also for about the first 2 times I stop the brakes are very hard to push almost like no power, after that they stop fine and function as normal. Any suggestions/ fixes for some of these things would be greatly appreciated!
 

Last edited by swartlkk; 04-04-2011 at 09:41 AM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the EDIT feature to add additional information to your post if another member yet to respond.
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Old 04-13-2011, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by burning_soul07
What gap did you set the spark plugs to?

When someone cranks, and you watch the injectors spray(take off the air cleaner cap and filter) how do the injectors spray pattern look? Its very difficult to check fuel pressure on these but I'm pretty sure you need 9 to 13 PSI to start especially.

No problems during load on engine?
Sorry for such a late reply.

Gaps are set to .45

The spray pattern looks like a cone, spreads out into a circle at the bottom.

No problems at all during load, I have a small leak on the passenger side exhaust manifold but its so minor that when it heats up it seals itself. I think it might be running really rich to, exhaust smells horrible while running. Do you think it could be the cat? I had a freind tell me its a possibility.

Going to get the codes scanned when I get home from School later today.

Any more help would be greatly appreciated!
 
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