Oil gauge started to jump from high to low. Found wires made it to front drive shaft and were pulled off. Before I got to fix wires I started to have hard time getting to turn over like a bad battery. Changed battery then wire fron battery to starter.Next canged starter silonoid on side of starter. Then put a new swith in the colum not the key but the one with a push rod from the key.I have not got any noise or anything under hood. I get a pulse of power in radio with key turned to run when turned to start I get nothing.I also do not have headlights or taillights at any time.brake lights work.I hope all this is something related to one thing.THANKS FOR ANY HELP!!!

 

You covered several different things in your attempt to fix..... what I am not sure? Lets take this one thing at a time.

Relax, I have been there and done all of that on my '87 S10-Blazer.

First and formost you need to deal with the wires that got wrapped up in your front driveshaft. I have 5 wires and I also ripped them off. My wires run up to the oil pressure sending unit, and oil pressure switch. Both of these devices are located next to the oil filter. The easiest thing to do is cut them and put electrical tape over the ends so they do not short out to each other. Your oil guage will not work, and if you run the engine out of oil the puter will not shut the engine off, so you could burn it out. However, with those wires taped off, you should be able to start the truck.
Now replace your fuel pump fuse. No doubt the fuse blew when the wires got ripped off, or when one of them made contact with any metal on the truck. The oil prssure circuit is tied into the fuel pump circuit.
Now try to start the truck.

Post up and we can go from there.

 

Part two of your post.

Battery is new and fully charged, good.
New battery cable to starter, good.
All connections are good and tight. There is a very large power draw by the starter. You can weld steel with a car battery, it has that much power.
Now this is where things get interesting.
There is one wire that attaches to the same bolt on the starter as the battery cable. This wire feeds all the power to the cab of the truck until the engine is running. There is a fuseable link within 12" of the starter connection. Make sure it is good!!!! You may have to remove the wire from the wire loom to find the fuseable link. If the link is discolored, swelled or uneven in size and shape, replace it. Your local autoparts stores sells replacement fuseable links for a couple bucks. Do NOT use fuses, the amperage rating don't relate properly with fuseable links. Get some wire connectors and shrink wrap. Make sure you shrink wrap the connections, otherwise the elements will corrode the connections and you will be replaceing more wire, and there isn't a whole lot of space to work as it is.

Now the other small wire that attaches to the starter on the other bolt is from your key. When you turn the key it sends power down this wire to the starter. Make sure you are getting power with the key in the start position. Unless you have really long probs on your volt meter, your going to need someone to hold the key to start. I highly recommend disconnecting the wire from the starter before you lay under the truck and someone turns the key. You risk personal injury otherwise.

None of this means anything until you deal with the oil sending unit wires, and make sure the fuel pump fuse is good. The bad battery could have been cuased by one of the wires on the oil sending unit grounding out.

 

Thanks for the info I was able to replace the fusable link. That did not fix problem but I know it wasnt long and it would be a new problem.I havent cheaked volts at starter yet. Another site I was one before this one someone thinks it is the igniton swith because all power to things not working runs thought switch. After i check volts I am going tol look at the switch. I am off the next two days and hope I will find problem.I will post what i find.

 

Hello. Did you make 100% sure you wired the start lead to the s lead of the new solenoid?? With this wire removed. I said REMOVED. Take the volt meter and check its potential when the key is turned to start position.

Leaving this attached to starter while testing could surprise the darn daylites out of you when all of a sudden it tries to start. Could do more than that; you could get hurt with your hand or fingers down there. BTW It might help to remove the starter one more time and simply try it with jumper cables laying next to the car. One positive to big terminal, one negative clamped to bolthole, take scredriver and carefully short the 12 volt suply to the S lead on the solenoid. If it works laying there, then it ought to at least try under the car.

While its off, check your s lead down there. A great thing to do is build yourself a quick disconnect for the s lead and the fusible link(s). About a foot of wire and proper connectors to plug things together. Only wire then hard wired is the big lead, I dont ever use a disconnect on those. I do like to run those seperate so that a wire can be disconnected right at the battery and let down to remove starter. I like to make my cars so I can service them. As soon as I have a major problem I correct the whole mess.

 

This may sound dumb, but do you have the correct wire (-) & (+) hooked up to your battery?