the handle alone shouldn't open the window. It needs the key in it and twisted to open the window. With the window open the handle can open the tailgate without the key. So ther isnt a need for a lock becasue it will only open the window by the button inside of the key. The vacuum line by the throttle blade goes straight down then towards the front to the evap canister. The first pic is of the line from the trottle blade down near the exhaust, then the second pic is where it goes. The third pic is just of the brake booster line.
The round thing under the VORTEC cover is the Tuneing valve, not the spider injectors. It is nothing more than a flap. It pulls straight up. I've removed it many times and used the same o-ring. I would recommend taking it off when removing the upper intake to avoid damaging it. Its a $200 part. more pics in next post.

 

image 1 is the port with the vacuum tee. The line going down before it is the trans vacuum. 2nd pic is a close up. The blue vacuum cap is where the vent vacuum should be, the others are as i explained before.
Pic 3 is of my line for the vent control vacuum. It is the real skinny one with the hose piece on the end.
Pic 4 is of the vacuum ball vacuum line from the tee goes in it
Pic 5 is of the cruise control. Vacuum line from the tee is the small one in the top
Pic 6 is where the pcv valve is and where it goes
Pic 7 is the front of the intake, IAC is the one on the left, TPS on the right

 

Ok guys here is an update, just to refresh I did everything excpet the injector, fuel filter, egr, idler air control valve, fuel pressure regulator etc etc with no luck. Finally got the money for the injector and BAM it fired right up, it was running a little rough and blowing lots of whitesh greyish blueish smoke for a while until it got warm, I know the bad injector had flooded the engine with gas and now have gas in my oil so figured that was an easy fix.

Took the truck out for its first ride since fixing the injector. Made it a few blocks and it stalled, and would not start back up, engine just sounded like it was really struggling and occasionally would have a small backfire and I would hear what sounded like a turbo charger whine like pressure was trying to escape. Any ideas? My vacuum lines are totally shot some are not even connected but it was running better than this before, what is strange is the battery is fully charged but if i give it a jump it will start almost like the starter is not strong enough to kick the engine over, but i know my starter has been going bad, so i figure maybe that and some fouled or partially fouled plugs could be the problem, also maybe incorrectly wired plugs causing timing issues? It drove ok at low speeds but when trying to give it some speed it would cut out and shutter, kinda re-affirming what i thought.

I dont know if this is a tell tell sign but when i was watching the engine while a friend was trying to start it and i heard the "backfire" sound a flame or very bright spark shot out from the back of the engine somewhere underneath the DISTRIBUTOR cap. That is not from the cap is it? I know there are at least one vacuum port back there and could it just be where the engine is releasing excess pressure since the vacuum lines are all ****ed up? Im really confused it was running better than this before my injector went out, the injector came with brand new poppit lines and fuel pressure regulator and was a pretty simple fix. Any help would be appreciated, I am on a very tight budget, also i read somewhere how to use a paper clip in the diagnostic port to get it to flash the codes does anyone know the link where it tells u exactly how to do this and it lists all the codes?

First thing I am going to try is making sure my plug wires are correct then maybe replacing all the plugs and see if that helps (fingers crossed) and if it does im going to take it to my mechanic that is really reasonable, and have them replace all the vacuum lines. The truck did sit all winter and not sure if i was able to get any winter blend gasoline in it, but I havent heard of fuel line freeze up or issues like that since the 70's.... I know the distributor cap is fairl new but the guys i bought it from bought junk, so maybe replacing it with ac delco, but could a ****ty cap really be that big of a deal?

Is there a computer somewhere in the vehicle that regulate the injectors and all the sensors that could be malfunctioning? Once i get it running it runs for a few seconds then you can hear it sounds like its starving for either air or fuel, or perhaps getting too much then it just dies, when I got to restart it it cranks really slow even with a full charge on the battery, then once its running i can rev the engine really high or low and its fine but it gets to a certain point and just dies... SO CONFUSED and frustrated, I want to just yank the engine out and drop a 350 small block with a carburetor in that bitch. Is it possible to convert a 4.3 "W" motor from fuel injection to carburetor intake? This would eliminate all the stupid friggin map sensors, idler air control valves and all the happy cray that causes all these problems....

If I had a cracked head or block I would be seeing anti freeze in my oil and etc correct? I know this can cause a truck to run like crap, worst case scenario how much would it cost to just drop a rebuilt 4.3 in it? Or is there a better motor that would fit. SOrry i know this was long, any advice is appreciated.

 

Andrew how do i test the TPS sensor this is the only thing i have not replaced, I bought a new map sensor put it in but it made no difference so i returned it and installed my old one, what kind of readout am i look for on my multimeter and when/how do i check it properly? ALso a good vacuum line diagram would be great, if anyone knows where to find one i had it before but forgot when it was, OH CRAP i didnt forget to reattatch that big vacuum line for the brake booster could that be a major issue???

 

Also when i took my manifold apart this is what it looked like in the picture, the right side was dirty left side clean, mine wasnt nearly as bad as this picture, what is that from?

 

Andrew thanks for the reply and the great pictures I will check into that, heres is another quick update, the "backfrie" I saw i assume was coming from the brake booster vacuum line, I remembered that I had forgotten to re attach it so I did that, and printed out a spark plug wire diagram, I had simply replaced them in the order they were when I bought it, according to all three diagrams I found online they were completely backwards, so i re attatched the brake booster and properly wired my plug wires, it still would not start but sounded alot better and was no longer back firing, im hoping i just need to replace the plugs and fix my vacuum lines now. Thanks again guys!!! Very helpfull.

 

Andrew in pic 5 what is that small blue air filter attached to? and why in pic 1 and two do u have a vacuum cap on? I really like the painted valve covers and intake brother nice touch, I now my pcv valve is bad too it rattles and makes noise or is that typical? Also my valve cover gaskets are shot, theyre these blue cheap looking rubber gasket that appear to be stretched out or were installed improperly, I can actually reach down and pull them out by hand, could this along with the pcv valve be adding to my vacuum issues, I always thought the pcv was there to simply vent the crank case and wasnt to big a deal.