Hi guys,

I'm new to this forum. I did some searches but wasn't able to find a thread that talks about the symptoms i am having. This is my brother's car and he's been having trouble starting the car for quite some time. The car would start and then shuts down immediately unless you give it some gas and then it won't shut off. When we took it to the mechanic, he said it is the spider. It has new plugs, wires, rotor, cap.

I am just wondering how hard is it to replace the spider since I couldn't find any info about it. The fuel filter hasn't been changed for a while either so I might change that as well while I'm at it. Also, could a faulty spider cause the symptoms I described above or could it even be the fuel regulator?

Thanks for the help-- Barry

 

Search for "CPI+spider" and you should find more than enough information. It may not be the entire spider, but rather possibly the FPR and/or the 'nut kit' (internal fuel lines). You can pop off the upper plenum, pressurize the system, and look for leaks to verify the fuel leak. It definitely sounds like you have a leak though.

 

Definitely change the fuel filter, also.. Check the oxygen sensor too, it might need replaced because it could be telling your engine to run too rich!

 

My '94 was doin exact same thing when FPR was bad but as already mentioned could be FPR, spider, nut kit or all of the above only way to narrow it down is to find where it's clean inside the upper plenum (pass side= fpr, drv side= spider and/or nut kit) check HERE for more info. A little advice regardless of which it is change the plugs at a very minimum at same time (I advise full tuneup but plugs are must have imo) if its leaking you likely have fuel leaking into the cylinders and fouling the plugs as well.

 

Cold motor isn't gonna' pay too much attention to the O2's...

 

Another spider leaking.... Its been a few days for this one to pop up ha ha.

Its not that hard to change man, I think the hardest part I encountered was removing the nut kit from the backside of the intake. There is little flat spots on the firewall sides of the nuts to bite into with a crowfoot or screwdriver, and they pop straight back toward the firewall with some elbow grease. They are solid, you wont damage them by prying the nut kit out. If thats what you find leaking. Dont be scared to do this job, you will find great instruction in here to walk you through it.

Check for a website URL that Gimpy Blazer posted to me a while back when I had this problem. The whole kit was $299 and thats the cheapest you are going to find. DONT EVEN think about going to the dealer for this... ($887.00+core)

 

hey thanks for all the inputs guys. i'll keep you guys posted. the car has 210,000K miles on it already; original engine and second transmission. so my brother is hesitant about spending too much on the car. the shop wanted 500 including labor to fix the problem so i guess i'll tackle it first and see what happens.

at the minumum if i can't fix it, i'll have a fuel pressure test kit as an addition to my toolbox.

 

i have almost the same issue with my same truck. 1994 blazer 4.3 vortec 4 wheel drive. i have changed the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. have not had time to do the fuel filter yet. When i go to start mine, the truck will crank and crank and crank, and then it will start. Sometimes i have to let it crank for a good minute before she starts. I pulled the OBD1 codes and it says that the system is normal. Im lost and i do not want to dump a ton of money into the Blazer because its rusty, but i love my blazer and i want to keep it around. any help would be greatly appreciated

 

Rusty truck = project HERE is an example my '94 was fairly rough when I began now everywhere I go somebody is turning to look you just don't see many in NE Ohio in that look this clean these days.
Apologies for the slight derail we now return you to your regularly scheduled thread.

 

hey guys,

bringing an old thread back to life. I finally had time over the weekend to replace the spider. it turned out it was the fuel regulator and the nut kit that was leaking. there was a puddle of gas on both sides of the plenum. The nut kit looked solid but what happened was the spider legs were rubbing constantly on the fuel lines that it managed to make a tiny cut into the lines. to prevent this from happening again hopefully, i just added some RTV where I think the lines would be rubbing against the legs of the spider.

since i got a new CPI unit, I just installed it along with the fuel kit. I also went a step further and replaced the lower intake manifold gasket and the valve cover gasket. i screwed up with marking the distributor and took me a while to figure out how it worked. i got it aligned to TDC and it still wouldn't fall in but then i used long screw driver to align the oil pump shaft so that it would plop right in when i dropped the distributor in. i wouldn't have thought of that until my neighbor came over and helped me. Glad my brother lives next to someone who works on his car all the time too.

i fired the car up and it still ddin't turn but turned out the battery was dead. after changin the battery, it fired right up. took it for a drive and it feels fine. i had a timing gun but didn't use it since my neighbor said it felt right. so druing the test drive, i realized i had coolant in the engine. i quickly changed the oil after the test drive and the plugs. plugs looked ok but lot of carbon from running too rich i guess.

wanted to thank everyone that gave me advice in this forum. thanks alot!

car runs fine but i just have a few questions on some electrical connections. i placed the photos here

http://picasaweb.google.com/bchen321...79807463389938

didn't know how to show images here. Here are the question i have for the images.

1. there seem to be 2 hoses going to the cruise control box but they look loose. are they supposed to go there?

2. this ground connector in the passenger firewall doesn't connect to anyhting. Is that supposed to be like that.

3. this connector has a bracket but not sure where this goes too.

The top three images had connections I never touched so I didn't label them but they manage to show up when i looked around for loose connections.

4. Final image, I scewed up here. This is the only connection i didnt label. I know there is a one terminal that goes from the battery to the alternator. But there is another terminal connection that would work only if I connected it to the same place where the battery terminal connects to the alternator. Is this supposed to work that way?

thanks again-- barry