My truck wont start, got stuck at the store last night and had to tow it home.
I did the jumper trick on the code reader.
after it did the test, it blinked 5 times in a row, then 4 times in a row, it did those number 3 times, and then went back to the test.
Is that code 54?
and what does it mean.
The truck turns over, but will not start at all.

 

obd1 54 is EGR or fuel pump problem.
https://www.google.com/search?q=gm+obd1+code+54
Since it wont start at all, probably fuel pump.
Do you hear it run at key on?

 

I thought I heard the fuel pump kick on, but I could have been just hopefully thinking. I heard that you can clean the EGR valve just to rule that out. is this true? I am leaning to the fuel pump as well though.
The reason I am thinking fuel pump is when it would not start, I did the first thing I know, and turned the key and held the pedal to the floor, i had to do that on my 94 a few times, and even after doing that, I did not smell any fuel at all

 

On hard start, holding pedal down while cranking decreases fuel .. pumping it sends more fuel.

I think this diag applies to your truck:



Quick test. Find your PCM test connector, Put ohmmeter on G to gnd. If over 15 ohm, bad fuse or FP.
If under 10 ohms, switch to dc volt. Check for 12v for 2 seconds at key on.

 

gonna go grab a ohm meter to test that, will report back

 

Ok, I got the ohm meter, how do I test the ground/G pin. do I just stick the positive test lead in there, and hte ground on something metal?
if its putting one in pin A and one in pin G, that is how I reset my keyless entry.

 

??? Then that may not be the right circuit, after all. Suggest using dc volts between frame gnd and G.
Look for 12v for 2 seconds at key on. If so, that will tell you it is the FP ckt. So then check ohm from G to frame gnd.

 

Yeah. the G is for the wireless entry, went out and tested, and all the locks popped and it reset my keyless entry. Its so frustrating not having anyone near me that is able to help diagnose problems with me, this is my only car and I'm doing all this stuff on my own.
So sorry in advance if I get frustrated.
And being a body work guy, most of this complicated engine stuff is new to me, I am slowly learning, but damn.

 

Well, I went out after the truck sat for well over an hour, and turned on the key and listened real close for the fuel pump, and heard nothing, I will just assume that its the pump.


I tried with the connection under the hood, and got no reading at all, I am going to have to wait for my girlfriend to come home to try that with the key in the on position to see how many volts it reads, but with that being said, 95% sure its the fuel pump, ordering one from rock auto

Thanks for the help

 

The next option is your oil press sender. Pretty sure that part of it's right. Just right of distributor

Pull the connector. It has three pins. Disconnected, one will be 12v to gnd either all the time or all the time with key on. One will be 5volts with key on: that goes to dash press gauge.
One will read no volts. It may be gray. Taht one is the one that holds the fuel pump on, when running it is the other side of switch to twelve volts. On it you should read less than 15 ohms to gnd.
If you have someone turn key on, it should read 12 v for two seconds.
ALSO in many the FP relay is behind dash
Key on should hear a click, two secs later another click as it turns off.