Here is where I mounted my ground. (the one with the black casing on the end)
Its a perfect place for it. Works great.

 

Next project/Q: Where is my knock sensor? 93 S-10 4.3 4x4 4-door VIN W

 

Hey everyone.. I found them. Both of them. I sprayed both with PB Blaster, and knocked on them.

Now, another issue: i can't seem to get my distributor cap off. I loosened up all the screws (both,) but I lift up on it and I can't get it off! Am I doing something wrong? Thanks!

 

*checking for signs of life*

1. What grade of motor oil do you all use in your 4.3 V6s, and why?

2. As to tke "knock sensor" issue. Let me post this, I hope we have some insight: What I was thinking of doing was getting a new knock sensor,since I don't see any connector in the black part of it, the part that is sticking out (this is referring to the one between the cylinders #3 and #5, if that is their number, on the driver's side.) So maybe it fell out?? What is also for sure is the wire is clean GONE, no idea where it would even go to, if I were to even want to try to run my own wire. The code won't go away with that wire gone, I am convinced. Or, even if the connector IS in that sensor (I honestly do not see a connector in there at all, in the black part where the wire looks like it would go, never seen anything like that) then probably hooking the wire up will make the code go off and all be well.

I may be an idiot, but I am asking honest questions. This is not to "put anybody on" or "yank anyone's chain," just FWIW.

 

O-K! found the sensor that plugs into the balck part of the knock sensor. Pep Boys hooked it up, the parts guy found it, as he seemed to be familiar. Thank you Pep Boys.

Now, do I splice it in to the wire that goes to the other knock sensor, and I have wired my knock sensor which will probably shut the SES light? Or do I not splice the wire for the knock sensor on the top and back of the engine? This is a 93.

I am so close to solving this, I want to ask twice and cut once, as to where to put this wire. If I can splice it into the other one, as some have said "There is only one wire that goes back to the ECU" and I splice it into the other knock sensor wire - seems it should already be like that then?? .. Almost there, please advise. Thank you!

 

i thought there was only 1 knock sensor an the other on the pass side was a temp sensor. BTW, i didnt see it stated, but that hose dangling under the front looks like the front diff vent tube. I run 5w-30 in my 4.3 becasue it says so. The truck has 221,000, but still seems tight so i'm running what's recommended.

 

We had the engine out (a few times) and saw the 2nd sensor. I had FINALLY got the right connector for the other one. It is wired right, and all is well now.

Now, as to where we are now, 8-1-13: T
Truck sounds perfect, but sounds like a Sawzall.

Let me c/p this from the other forum, to get the most exposure.. Trying to decide on next course of action, though I am believing it is flywheel myself. AND needs new exhaust.

Thinking of who can drop the trans for the cheapest, to get a new flywheel in there.. since I personally think it is this, and look forward to all insight, as well.

(begin)
Sorry for the messed-up Facebook video interface, but the card I would put them directly to Youtube on is gone with the phone. Here are those videos, most of them, from yesterday: (Must click link to see each one)

1. BEFORE I started driving, RIGHT after I turned the key, from changing the oil from the 5W-30 that was in there to the 20W-50 This is BEFORE I got the Blazer in motion this morning. (Gauge pressure looked slightly higher with 20W-50 but not by too much. Halfway on gauge at speed.) https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=536638299736054

2. 1 minute after driving. This is taken about 30 seconds-1 minute after first video, of initial start. It makes some kind of noise in the first 6 seconds that may or may not mean anything, kind of like a tractor trailer. And yes, I know my shift alignment is off. Will be remedied soon. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=536639476402603

3. About 15 minutes later, after highway driving, I *MAY* hear less saw-zall noise. Here is that, at first noticed. *It is still there but more of how it may be sounding on the way. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=536641196402431

4. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=536643433068874

5. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=536651376401413
*NOTE a REDUCED noise level in this situaton, louder when door is opened.

Now, about the engine that went in: I am doubtful the noise is originating from the engine that went in. Firstly, it was pretty much a direct bolt-in, though i am unsure why he felt the need to change the oil pans (one was shallow, the one I had was deep, maybe it was not a 4x4 and mine was. Again: Oil pump, pick-up tube, and pan were changed.) The engine "showed strong signs of compression" as it was hard to turn by hand, spark plugs were left in.. Maybe I need a tune-up. Actually, I likely do. Spent a lot of time making sure timing was right, and it really does appear to be so, since the Cylinder 1 is in the 5 o'clock position on this 1993 4.3 distributor, as per Haynes. Engine runs great. Blackened oil quickly, but, hey, it is now seeing normal use so that is fine and I will monitor the level and condition of it. We also had to change the water pump, since the one from the yard came with a weeping one. Otherwise, we used Dex-Cool since it is what we had; The engine seems great. Does not overheat, and no smokes. Typical loose oil fill tube. How do I fix that. Good engine, IMHO.

HOWEVER, WHEN THEY TOOK THE ENGINE OUT OF THE DONOR TRUCK, THEY USED TORCHES AND CUT THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD THAT HAD A SNAPPED BOLT, so only 2 out of 3 od the bolts on the exhaust manifold are over the exhaust donut, ONE IS HELD ON BY A C-CLAMP. I remember this truck ALWAYS had some kind of an exhaust tick.

Gas is running low, or I would see how she does today, in the heat and humidity, which is coming back.

Any possibility this saw-zall noise could be this exhaust situation?
(end)

And, links:

1994 VIN W 4.3 sounds like conga drums, oil pan and related were switched, what is ? - S-10 Forum

1994 VIN W 4.3 sounds like conga drums, oil pan and related were switched, what is ? - S-10 Forum

First reply was suspecting something with the flywheel/torque converter.

Here is the engine that went in.



Here is the video of how it FIRST sounded. THIS NOISE HAS SINCE IMPROVED AND BECOME MORE QUIET, AND MORE LIKE A SAWZALL. (Sorry for Facebook format on the later videos but that phone is gone and cannot get them to Youtube. Second best option.

First start, outside shop:


Then, up on lift at a second shop, a day or two after:

Vid one

Vid two (better)

 

R.I.P to headphone users..
That being said, that is not a good noise, I do not think its the flywheel. Its definitely not exhaust either.
Sounds like its internal, the only way to find out, before you start tossing parts into this thing (as you have had more problems than I would have delt with) is get a mechanics stethoscope. and start listening around.

 

^^^ guys.. The only flaw with the "bearing" theory is that I see no metal in my engine, and I still have good oil pressure. If you MUST know.. Oil pressure is only SLIGHTLY higher with 20W-50 than it was with a fresh fill of 5W-30. What this means I am not sure but I noticed it right away, and I noticed it more when driving that OP was about in the middle of the gauge, whereas with 5W-30 it was only about one bar on the gauge or so less across the board so maybe that also is normal? And I am getting the oil level spot-on to the top of the LONG dipstick, for the DEEP oil pan. Previous engine had a SHALLOW oil pan, and SHORTER dipstick (but the max marks appeared to be the same.)

What I am saying is.. that.. if Oil Pressure was about the same with 5W-30 and 20W-50, I am not sure my interpretation of noise is accurate.

I also know there is a C-clamp holding a driver side exhaust manifold flange over the donut together, and apparently it is doing quite well, sine starting to realize it may not be exhaust at this point. Also ruling out lifters, though if this engine was sludged/starved of oil, then I think changing the oil is key, so it can free up. Marvel Mystery Oil, etc (in with the normal oil.)

Going to try one more grade of oil, super duper thick, to see if it changes. IF IT DOES NOT, I again suspect.. plate??

((again: http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f107/1...5/#post8208734 ))

 

Changing the oil will not fix anything, all it will do is waste money, I am not sure what you are trying to accomplish by doing that.

If you think its the flywheel. Drop the tranny and find out.