Thanks for your reply. Well I check again for blown fuses and I discovered that the ign/gau fuse was blown. I put in a new one then it blew. (did that twice) There is no power comming out of the inst/lps circuit so i'm thing that's thr reason for the overload. There is a pigtail connector on the right side of the fuse pannel. Visusaly checked it did'nt see anything wrong. I'm sure that the gry wire is for the inst/lps. So I guess the next step is to pull the fuse pannel. Is this the right way to go and the screws that attaches it to the firewall what kind are they, It's a deep well and I can;t what type even with a flashlight. (I don;t) want to strip the screw

 

the screws are 5/16 bolts. 8mm is the same as well.

 

Checked fuse panel everthing looks fine (no loose or coroded wires) so leaning towards the ignition switch. So I took off the old switch matched it up at az . But in my haste I did't note the position of the acturator rod as it connect to the switch. so i'm stuck

 

Dude you got me lost.
If I understand you orrectly you dont have any instrument gages? You keep blowning a fuse? If you keep blowing the fuse you have a direct short.

Does your alternator cahrge the battery?
Dont use a tester to test the wire between the battery and alternator, nor the ground cables. Those cables are extra thick for a reason. 99 times out of a 100 youll get a good reading from those cable even when they are shot. The problem is with the test. It only takes one strand of wire for the tester to read good. Pull the cable out and look for green corrosion, if you see any, replace the cable. If the corrosion is under the sheathing your cable is toast.

Now there should also be a fuseable link after the alternator, the other smaller wire attached to the alternaotr. Look for a thicker place in the wire about 6 from the end, more than likely in teh protective sleeve. Test both sides of that fuseable link with your tester.
There is also a fuseable link after the starter wire, this wier feeds power to teh cab fuse box, again 6 inches and buried in teh sleeve. Now if your fuse box is getting power, and your blowing one fuse in particualar, you have a direct short in that circuit. You need to find it. Get a Hanyes manual and find out what is on that circuit. Than start to disconnect things one at a time and see if the fuse stops blowing. Or disconnect every thing and plug them back in one at a time. Depends on how many fuses you want to replace, and how difficult it is to access all accessories. Chasing electrical shorts aint fun, espeically ina truck. Most of the wire is hard to reach.

As for the headlights, they get there power from teh battery. The relay gets its power from the cab.