Alright, tired of buying parts to try to chase this problem. even came on here and read a article that almost identically matched my problem, so I replaced that part, and it still didnt work, so i'll run down the problem below, and list all the parts i've replaced to try and fix this problem.

First off, it Idles GREAT! it runs ok when its COLD, starts getting wrose as it gets warmed up. The problem is it hesitates and boggs down when you give it any kind of acceleration, if you floor it, you wind up gowing slower...my way of describing it is trying to blow a milkshake out of a coffee straw, it just wont do it. it doesnt smoke at all, and as long as you give it just very little gas, it will do ok, and has alot of trouble up hill as well. There is also a good coating of oil on the TBI unit what could cause that as well?..now for the list of chasing parts that i've replaced already:

NEW:
Spark plugs and wires
dist. cap and rotor
new o2 sensor
new coolant temp sensor
new thermostat
new Throttle Position sensor
new MAP sensor
two new vaccum lines that had leaks
new fuel filter
new air filter

any ideas? this is our only transportation and funds are now limited from all these parts

eric

 

Try disconnecting and removing the O2 sensor from the exhaust pipe. This will result in a check engine light as well as a loud exhaust, but if the engine runs better, you mostlikely have a plugged catalytic converter. By pulling the O2 sensor, you give the exhaust someplace to go.

 

well at least trying that doesnt cost any money, I will try today and let you know what happens. Thanks, anyone else with any suggestions, dont hesitate throwing things out there

 

I'm having the EXACT same problem as you describe. I have a 1992 S-10 4.3L vortec. This week, I've replaced plugs, wires, dist. cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter, and even the fuel pump, plus recently had injectors/spider put in before I bought it. I'm going to try the catalytic converter test next. If converter is plugged, is there a way to fix it?

 

Just to replace it. You should be able to pick up a universal cat for ~$60.

 

I had the same symptoms with a Mazda years ago. It was the Cat. Mazdas are known for it. They call it "punching the cat" when you take a broom handle and knock the honeycomb out of it.

Not legit, but good temporary. It was a wonder my truck ran with how bad it was damaged.

 

I've got this exact problem with my Blazer.

 

I read where three guys have the same problem. Did any of you figure out what the problem was?

Thanks,

john

 

I can vouch for the bad CAT..did the same thing as most guys here...thought it was fuel then thought it was spark then thought it was...you get the pic. It's amazing how fragile those things are, I put on a brand new cat when I did my engine and it was toast right out of the box, I played for days trying to find the problem and in desperation cut the cat out, once removed i gave it a shake and there was very little rattle but the broken piece (pieces) was acting like a check valve, when idling there wasn't enough pressure to jam the piece into the outlet but once you hit the gas that was it. I'm lucky because we have no inspection to go through so I just went to Crappy Tire and bought 2 couplings and a short piece of straight pipe and it's never ran better. A little advice though..if you are replacing it..don't go for the cheapest one...you get what you pay for.