Firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2 and the distributor rotates clockwise. If you only removed the cap, and didn't rotate the distributor, then you shouldn't need to reset the timing. Cylinder 1 is the front cylinder on the bank that has the cylinder head pushed forward further than the other (IIRC, its the drivers on my 2k, but it's been awhile since I've screwed around with that). Which ever side has cyl#1 has 3 & 5 as well, then the other side would go 2,4,6.

 

Thanks for the info on the firing order. Is the #1 generally on the passenger side closest to the radiator? Also, the #1on the cap at the 7 o'clock posistion? If the 1 cylinder is on the pass side, i have already tried to run my wires that way and it still ran really rough. sounded kinda lik and airplane. I did not take the rotor out, jsut the cap. Would seaform cause it to run like crap? Just a thought.
Josh

 

#2 is locatd closest to the radiator and the pass side, then the one behind it is #4 And #6 is is closest to the heater core.

 

Cool. UR sure 246 is on pass and 135 on drivers? Does drivers read the same, front to back? Sorry for the stupid ?'s, i am kinda new at this type of tinkering. I usually only mess with car audio.BTW, where is the first contact point on the cap, 7 o'clock? then just go clockwise? 1,2,3 etc...?

 

I'm not sure where the #1 cylinder should be on the cap, but to find out, turn the motor over to compression on #1. To do this, pull the plugs and turn the motor over with the starter. Place your finger over the plug hole for #1 cylinder (front drivers side). When your finger gets blown out of the way, then you're on compression on the #1 cylinder. From there, you can pull the cap and take a look at the rotor location. Since the distributor rotates clockwise, you'll want the wire terminal that is closest to the rotor position in the clockwise direction. Mark this as your #1 terminal.

 

Thanks for the help.. No such luck starting though. Had to have my lady jump me off and all my truck did was spin. UGH. I think though that my dist cap may be loose. I will tighten that tommorow when I have sunlight. I replaced my plugs on the dist in the 1,6,5,4,3,2 that was recomended. I hope this travesty ends tommorow.

 

6 distrib 5
4 cap 1
2 3


6 engine 5

4 3

2 1

____radiator________
[__________________]

 

That is true for your distributor design, but I'm not sure if that is the way that the CPI motors with a more traditional cap (ie wires out the top). Based off of that Distributor cap routing, the 1-6-5-4-3-2 firing order would not work on the older caps. The reason why it works on the newer engines is because of the internal (to the cap) routing of the terminals. If you look on the top of your cap, you'll see a trace of where the terminals actually go from the pins inside to the plug outside.

 

Hey dude, buy a manual, book before proceeding any further , PLEEEEZZE. Cause what you're getting here is some serious funny information. You never should have started on the problem without a book. Not knowing the firing order or where cylinder one is are serious giveaways.

Do you know where your timing mark is on that thing? Bring her up to top dead center for cylinder 1 NOT 4. This would be accomplished by MANUAL rotation of the engine in the clockwise direction via the crank, till you get to the ZERO mark on the timing tab. If I were you, I would have the driver side valve cover removed and watch the cylinder closest to the radiator closely. This is cylinder number one, for sure. While looking at the rocker arms for cyl number one, make sure they are moving while turning the engine. Moving JUST BEFORE the zero mark on the timing tab. If they are, cylinder one is top dead center. If they are not, the same spot is cyl 4's top dead center or 180 out. I like to pay attention to 4 if I have the whole engine open, but 4 is on the other side and no sense opening yourself up to two leaking valve covers.

BTW the factory commited a very drastic sin in the horizontal cap arrangement if that is what you have. The cylinder number one wire is not the furthest forward as one would think. On the drivers side of such caps the cylinders are 3,1,5 from front to back. On the other side, passenger, the cylinders are 2,4,6, front to back. FRONT of car to back of car in both cases. The sin being that a stupid cap made on purpose to arrange things nicely for the wires was messed up due to the cylinders not being in the correct order on the ODD (drivers) side. This has messed up many a dude with no book. Wires to the cylinder 1 and 3 are actually SUPPOSED to be reversed, between the engine and the cap. Get it?

Now, if you happen to have a "normal" (vertical) cap the cylinder 1 position will be the right one of the two directly facing the engine. In other words, two cylinders will face the front of the engine compartment together. make sure that the distributor is retuned to the same appearing LOGICA location as it was with two towers facing forward. The number one cylinder should be the one on the drivers side. Same as where the location of the cylinder actually is. The rotor should face this way, pointing at the tower (under cap) when lined up right. The firing order is 165432 and I dont have any doubts about it at all. That means the plug wire following cyl 1 will be 6. And so on.

 

Read a couple of other things from between the lines of this post. Cherry bombs?? Are you running a true dual with no tail pipes? No cat(s), just cherry bombs? Had all that long? Or just long enough to mess up the sensors running things for the computer. Do you still have your O2 sensors? Checked the operation of the local egr lately? Bet it doesnt much like the situation? If you have no cat converter and true duals, I see little hope in keeping that vehicle running smoothly unless you are willing to modify your computer. I can't help you there. I am one that likes to see true dual cats and if you really need the sound of dual cherry bombs, I cant stop that.

The 94 and 95 cpi models are some of the best running higher horsepower models out there, straight from the factories. Before modifying the exhausts and intakes on these, some serious considerations of the computer functions and interdependencies of all the sensors will have to be studied. No such thing as just jumping in there.