I'm getting code 32 on my 4.3 TBI and it's idling rough, hesitates on low speed, and smells rich. I took out the EGR, cleaned it and cleaned the part of the TBI where it mounts and vacuum tested it and it's opening and closing and holding vacuum. I have vacuum from the engine to the solenoid, but no vacuum out of it at any time (warm or cold engine). Is there any way I can test the solenoid without a scanner, like by unplugging it and applying voltage to its plug to test if it's opening and closing (passing vacuum)? In other words; I need to know what are the 3 wires on its plug. As I recall, it's a 4 pins connector with only 3 used ones.
Sorry for my bad English; it's my 3rd language, and thanks in advance for any help.

 

OK. Today I unplugged the EGR solenoid's electrical plug and tested the 3 wires on it with a digital multi-meter. Found that the one separated from the 2 other wires by the unused pin in the plug is ground, the one on the other outer side of the plug gets 12V on ignition without starting the engine, and the third one next to the 12V wire has no voltage at all. I cleaned contacts on both; solenoid and plug sides with electronic contact cleaner spray and put it back.
Then I removed both vacuum lines on it (in & out), put a line (a clear rubber tube) that I have on the plug (solenoid side) that connects to the engine vacuum, and sucked through it. The solenoid did a funny buzzing/whistling noise that goes off when I put my finger on the plug that goes to the EGR valve, without feeling any vacuum (seems that the tip that has a filter on the inside has minor leak too). It seems like it has a minor vacuum leak. I did the same test with the ignition on without running the engine; same result. Then I connected the vacuum line from the engine to the solenoid, shorted the A & B on the OBD connector and started the engine, engine light started flashing, put my finger on the solenoid tip that goes to the EGR valve, revved the engine (it was already warmed up); no vacuum out of the solenoid. Does that mean that the solenoid is faulty?
Now I'll have to wait till I go on the highway to see if there's any changes (code 32), which will not be soon as it's not my daily drive and both me and my wife have other cars.
Hope I'll get some reply here that tells me what I should be testing and how to do it without a scanner so I would know if I need to buy a new solenoid.
Note: I have enough knowledge and tools to do electrical tests on it and/or apply a specific voltage to it out of the car, but have no scanner.
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