***EDIT*** this is a work in progress. I could use a hand if any are willing. the to do list is at the bottom please post up some helpful links, additional problem areas, anything you think pertains to this. I've tackled most of the easy stuff (lazy) but will start diving into the more technical areas soon. If you load up a couple links on the ready line, this will run a lot smoother...

Well I have finally decided to get off my *** and do something useful around here…
I have been around for about a year now, and have had a blast seeing people come through and ask the same questions over and over again. In fact, when I came to the forum, I did the same thing everyone else does. Sign up, and unload my problem without knowing where to ask or even look. Like many, I was pointed to the search option and given a helpful link to get me started.

Due to this common occurrence I have compiled this, my Swan Song, to help out those rolling in to the Forum, new, and full of issues. Also, if you have been here for a while and something new (to you) comes up, this might act as a quick reference. This is by no means a comprehensive list of everything that can, has, or will go wrong EVER. It just tackles the things that seem to come up the most often, or are a common complaint. I just slogged through the (at the time) 22 pages of this bad boy, and used it as a starting point.

To All Forum Folk: Please feel free to pitch in with anything I may have over looked, any new fixes, and thing that may make the listed fix smoother, more understandable, picture-tastic, etc.
If you contribute please try to follow the outline that I have started laying out, so I can cut and paste into the original Edit style. i.e BOLD brief problem description. The suggested fix (with link to post if more explanation, pictures, diagrams, etc are needed). A link to a part (if applicable) to show what is needed. (Not necessarily the best part, cheapest part etc. just as a reference.) Lastly, give credit where credit is due, - name of original poster

“I bought a vehicle once. It was so bad, it didn’t even come with a warranty. It came with an apology.” – Blazer Owner

Common Issues and Fixes

For the 2 Gen S10 Blazer

Squeak in glove box: Glove box hatch rattles at the latch. Wrap a bit of tape around the U shaped latch piece on the glove box door. - NTL1991

Squeak at rear hatch glass: Rear hatch glass squeaks on bumpy roads, highway, at idle, etc. Take some Hockey tape (any thick material-based tape) and wrap the U shaped latch on the window. –ahawks47

Swing away tire carrier rattles: Going over bumps the spare tire rack squeaks and rattles. Take some tape (any thick material-based tape) and wrap the latch on the carrier. -Zedartwo

Dash squeaks above feet: The trim around the bottom of the dash squeaks when driving. First, tighten the screws. If that doesn’t help, trim the loop portion (soft part) of some Velcro and apply small pieces at the joints (rub points). - ABN31B

Door squeaks when opening/closing: Use penetrating oil to lightly coat the hinges, pins, springs, etc. Work the door open and closed a few times. Hit it again if it’s still squeaky. – common sense

Door does not latch properly/sags/feels sloppy on the hinges: You need new Pins and Bushings. Each door takes 2 sets (1upper and 1 lower). You can cut off the hinges and install replacement pieces. You can weld up the holes and ream them back out to size. Or you can try to use some JB weld or similar metal filled epoxy to fill the void and restore the hole. These are in order of complexity as well as permanence. With putting replacement hinges on as the most complex and the longest lasting option and using a metal filled epoxy as the easiest, but least permanent option. – swartlkk

Hard to get to spark plugs: It can be a huge PITA to get to the #3 plug.
The spark plugs are located in tight quarters. Try using any cheap spark plug socket with a 3/4" hex on the end of it. Break it loose with the 3/4" wrench and spin it out by hand. - Lastcoupe
Lift the front end and remove the driver’s side tire. You will have easier access to the plugs when going through the wheel well. -00blackblazer

Losing center caps off wheels: When driving around, the center caps come off of my wheels. Get a few from a local junkyard/internet site. Before reinstalling, wrap the pliable black adhesive that comes with your aftermarket speakers (for attaching the grilles) around the inside lip of the cap. Now when you mash it on, the adhesive will hold it, along with the tension from the plastic teeth. This will work with caps with broken teeth too. It is weather resistant and non-permanent, so you will not ruin your wheels. - ABN31B

Power windows/locks/mirrors switches are failing: Water gets down into the connectors of your power windows/locks/mirrors due to an open window or worn pins and bushings crating a bad door seal. Pull the switches, take them apart, and clean all the contacts with rubbing alcohol and/or a pencil eraser. – KD5NRH

Hood is stuck/doesn’t pop every time/requires a special ‘tap’ to open: Take a look at the latch mechanism. Hose down the whole assembly with carb cleaner. After it dries, grease it with spray on white lithim grease. -a_tack(?) WD 40 – WolfPack or PB Blaster (it was closer at the time) – ABN31B

Manual seat recline handle broken: Yeah, who’s isn’t? Try this for a long term solution: - TrippleBlackBlazer If you are looking for something cheap and fast (but surprisingly useful) just get a set of small vise grips (3 pack at Harbor Freight $5) lock them down on the nub, and recline away gangsta'! - unknown first vise gripper

Visor elastic strap is stretched: The visor elastic map straps turned into a limp mess. Get a knife, scissors, razor, or sharp rock and trim them off. The current straps can’t be saved. If you need this thing, buy an aftermarket visor organizer, wrap a pant leg blouser around your visor, or leave enough to stitch new elastic bands to the trimmed nubs. - ABN31B

Interior door panels are loose: The interior door panels are loose. They rattle, squeak, or pull away from the door skin. Remove the screw around the door handle trim plate and the hex head bolt under the arm rest. Starting at the bottom, pull back slowly until you feel points of resistance. Move your hands closer to these points and continue peeling the panel away until you reach the window trim. Once the bottom and both sides have been pulled free, lift UP not out on the trim and free the lip that tucks in near the window. Flip it over and inspect the little plastic ‘Space Needles’ that you just popped free. They will look like this, but are most likely a cream/white color
If they are worn down, replace them. If they are in good shape, look at the U shaped crevice they slide into. I the plastic is busted the easiest repair is simply gluing the retainer back in place with some epoxy resin that dries hard. (let it dry fully before reattaching. Last, but not least, bridge the gaps between the retainers by applying adhesive Velcro strips to the door skin and trim panel. This will form a stronger, removable bond, soak up noise, and take out some of the slop. Reinstall by sliding the lip back in to the window trim, lining up retainers with their holes, and gently “popping” them back into place with your palm from the top down working both sides then the bottom. Enjoy. - ABN31B

Jack cover panel squeaks OR will not stay attached: This is made worse when you try to use the cargo cover. The small flip open retainers do their job fairly well, until you try to drag out your retractable cargo cover. To boost the strength of the jack cover panel, line it with a little Velcro. If it is just a squeak/rattle, use the loop portion (soft stuff) at major rub points. If it is too weak and falls off, attach the loop portion to the panel, and the hook portion to the trim (stationary part). Now you have an industrial strength fastener backing up the pins, AND you can still easily access whatever you stash back there.- ABN31B

Heater blows hot air all the time: Even when it’s off hot air blows from the vents. Take a look at your Blend Door Actuator.
This link will talk you through the common way of changing this part out. This link will show a short cut. Both are good How-To’s with pictures. As noted, there are 2 different BDA’s for the Blazer. One is Manual as denoted by a blue-to-red semi circle over you heater control. The other is Automatic as denoted by numbers indicating set temperatures. The difference between these two parts is roughly 3 to 1 so make sure you get the one you need. (sorry Auto guys, yours is the $$$ one). Common way - swartlkk Short Cut - ravenhurst


Thanks (so far) too: All of the forum members that post anything helpful, past, present, and future.
Sisk for finding that dead link.
Future contributers...

TO DO LIST!
rear window actuator link breakage
Blend door use this links from this post and the long fix option too
4wd
visor's mirror cover
ignition switch
hazard switch
Stock radio fails/lights burn out
Windsheild Wiper control circuitboard "solder" problem - see swartlkk's post
Fuel gague
fuel pressure regulator fails (cpi "W" engines) - see DIY post on fixing this
ABS problem – this might be a recall, check the recalls page
idler arm
A/c compressor fails
Electronic Transfer Case No Shift
Intake Manifold leaks

 

NICE WORK Curtis!! Damn, this is a nice list.
As for the manual seat recline..yeah you're right, who's isnt? lol. But your link on a temporary fix doesn't work And I don't remember seeingit anywhere..I'd like to though.

 

Alex - thanks for the support man. I figured if the Army is paying me to screw around on the internet all day, I might as well do something constructive
*Link is fixed for Permanent Solution. Added temporary Solution to same problem.

 

ttt
Great list

 

Wow awesome list! I'll give that hood latch thing a try tomorrow.

 

glad you liked it. i REALLY need to get going on it. it is mostly just liking to other's how to's at this point

 

I like my Squeaky jack cover solution better.
1, Take off
2, Leave off
Works 80% of the time, every time.

I need to do the window switch clean out though, mine likes to not roll up sometimes. Gets a little annoying.

 

I fixed my hatch rattle by lifting it and then slowly but forcefully slamming it back in... but man when it was a squeaking... i thought i was going to kill someone... lol drive me crazy

 

Quote:

Hard to get to spark plugs: It can be a huge PITA to get to the #3 plug.
The spark plugs are located in tight quarters. Try using any cheap spark plug socket with a 3/4" hex on the end of it. Break it loose with the 3/4" wrench and spin it out by hand. - Lastcoupe
Lift the front end and remove the driver’s side tire. You will have easier access to the plugs when going through the wheel well. -00blackblazer

Once you crack them loose stuff a piece of fuel line over the end, makes a great swivel!

 

good call, i just cut the end of an old wire to use and an extension. allows for better grip and lets you get it in without cross-threading because you have more control

i will add in the suggestions thanks