Recommendations-Tranny bit the dust
#11
You can always get something for it ...weather you part it or complete...but it comes down to body and driveline condition...and if you really like it... if my tranny went tomorrow I would have it rebuilt no question in my mind... and rebuilt with upgrades ...if you buy a new GM transmission its going to have the same crappy parts with minimal or no upgrades.
#12
I decided to invest in my truck when I realized that with 135k miles the engine was likely ok and everything else I could fix or have had fixed (e.g. the transmission). It helped also when I realized that to get a replacement mid-sized SUV that could tow my boat and be a body-on-frame design would mean paying at least $10,000 if not more for a Toyota 4-Runner that was 10 years old with about the same number of miles.
It helps that my body has no rust although there are paint chips I must attend to.
It helps that my body has no rust although there are paint chips I must attend to.
#13
Background story: I have a '97, and it has twice thrown a galaxy worth of transmission codes. Both times the vehicle put itself in "limp home mode". The first time, as a hail mary, I got a trans flush/fill (I've been mostly good about the trans maintenance over the years) and the issues just disappeared. The second time, two years later, I took it to the same all purpose shop (different tech though..) who said, "the fluid's burnt", even though that fluid was only about 15-20k miles old, tops. So I took her to an actual transmission shop. Those guys called me back and said the codes were cleared, the symptoms (limp home mode) were gone, and that the fluid...was clean and good! The guy's exact words were, "you have so many codes, we don't believe that many things failed at once, so we think it's electrical." I had him go ahead and drop the pan, replace the filter, and change the fluid....somewhat against his urging. Immediately thereafter I start researching GM/Blazer/Chevy transmission sensor/electrical problems and I stumble across
This made zero sense to me. A not blown fuse is a working fuse, right? Well, somehow, maybe that is not consistent with reality. Because replacing this fuse worked for me. ::knock on wood:: I was very skeptical, but there were a few comments on the video that pushed me to try it...besides, what did I have to lose, $1.60?
One comment from there "People this guy is correct, look for the trans solenoid fuse and replace with the correct number before doing anything else. Even if the fuse is not blown replace with new." ~ Josie M.
Another comment I remember but seems to have disappeared was "I can't imagine how many transmissions were replaced because of one simple fuse.."
I hope this simple solution works for you! ::fingers crossed::
Last edited by elrobis; 01-25-2018 at 11:13 AM.
#15
just tried it, swapped out the air bag fuse, still no go. I checked the fuses with a meter, both are ok.
#16
BTW if I pull the Trans fuse I get a p1860 code. So if it's blown in theory that should pop up.
#17
one other thing when I had the engine running it almost sounded like squeaking from mice or other rodents inside the dashboard. Anyone know what that is? It went away as soon as I shut off the engine.
#18
Probably mice in the heater vents. Or your HVAC fan is starting to wear. A couple of mine do it at the lower speed settings. Sometimes it goes away. Sometimes when it is really cold (-10°F) it's loud as hell. You can pick one up from eBay for $35. They are a bit of a PITA to replace. You have to pull the computer and coolant overflow bottle and cut out the plastic cover. Then put Gorilla tape on the cover when replacing the plastic. Duct tape will rot away in under year. Roughly a 2 hour job at a leisurely pace.