This site is great ;-) Thank you for every ones post!! It has helped me do this project.

I'm in the middle of repairng a intake man leak and decided to get a new spider also since I'm already there and don't want to do this again lol. I ordered the Standard FJ503 with FEL-PRO MS95817 from rockauto. The gasket kit does not come with a front and back manifold gasket (lifter-valley gasket). It's been a while since I've done any repair work but do they not make them anymore? or do I just put a bead of high temp silicone down and pray? I know the old 350's used them.

Also on the spider there was no O-ring seals. (Then again, none came out either) Guess they don't need them or should I put some silicone around them to?
Thanks,

 

yea, just use some high temp silicone on the manifold ends and the spider does not need silicone.

 

There is no gasket for this area. Run a 1/4" bead of Ultra Black RTV and forget about it. But don't forget to clean both surfaces very well with brake cleaner prior to laying down the bead. Don't run RTV anywhere on the LIM gaskets except for the very corner where the meet the block rails though.

The injectors themselves go down into the LIM bare/dry/whatever. Do not put anything around them. There is no need for a seal in this area.

 

thanx guys! Easy parts over with, hard part is putting it all back together lol

 

Finally got it all back together followed the steps off D-Tips and no start. Had spark and fuel but no start, no back fire, no nothing. Some how when I pulled out the distributor it turned the oil pump shaft. (think thats whats its called the thing the bottom of the distributor connects to) So my markings I made before I took it all apart were basically worthless. I could lift the distributor up and move it to a different tooth but it would not go all the way down. So I just kept moving the distributor around (1 oclock, 2 oclock 3 oclock etc..Lifting it up, setting it down, lifting it up, setting it down...u get the idea)When the distributor would finally sit all the way down it would be a tooth clockwise from were it was last go around. I did this 3 times and each time when the distributor would go all the way down it was a tooth clockwise from wear it sat last time around. Still not for sure how it moved but I followed the directions for EDI Timing Then set the electric distributor tab thing were it was right under the number 1 terminal on the distributor cap (which is basically pointed were the number 2 spark plug wire would connect to the distributor cap ) Put the cap back on and walla it fired off and it runs. Just have to get the air out of the cooling system tomorrow and it's all good. next is the leaky heater core woohoo heheh

Without this site I don't think I could of done. Thank you everyone for you post and replies!!!