It is not running good at all.. it stalls, hesitates and burns fuel bad.

 

Blasir, did you even bother to read ANYTHING in this thread before getting up on your imaginary pulpit? Man come on.

If the FPR is leaking, it WILL clean off the aluminum lower intake. The lower intake will no longer be a brown/copper color, but nice clean aluminum. The FPR can be checked for leakage once the plenum is off to ensure that it is infact the source of the problem.

Within the last few years, the aftermarket has released kits where the FPR can be independantly replaced without replacing the CPI unit as a whole. Before then, the only choice was a new CPI unit, period. If a fuel leak was present - confirmed either with a fuel pressure leak down test or visually when the plenum off and found to be either an injector or the FPR, the whole unit must be replaced.

If the 'nut kit' is leaking, then you can just replace the 'nut kit'. A leaky nut kit will show up the same as a leaking FPR when performing a fuel pressure leak down test, but will be confirmed when removing the upper plenum. There should be NO gas in the upper plenum. Actually, there should be no fluids at all.

Any internal fuel leak should NOT be left unrepaired. Unmetered fuel being added to the combustion process will cause your vehicle to run outside of the optimum range it is made to run in. Most fuel leaks get worse over time, most... Blasir, it is possible that you are an exception to the rule, but if you have a crystal clean area on your lower intake, then you too have a fuel leak internal to the upper plenum.

 

I love that!!! A muffler installed wrong caused a couple hundred mile decrease in fuel economy per tank fill. Man I HATE those Idiots who call themselvesmechanics/technicians. They are the ones who give the rest of us (technicians)a bad name. If they don't know what they are talking about they need to grow some *****, suck it up and tell the customer this!! Or get better training and info to better fix their customer's cars. Sorry about my rant, But yes I would check the nut kit, and double check the regulator, because after 6 years it could have sprung a leak. Now for the SES, the code will still be there for a little while after the light goes out. The ECM does not clear it as soon as the light goes out. HTH Korey.

 

At what point before my post did pokergirl_lynnsay her truck was running poorly?
I read perfectly well, Thank you!
Now it seems more possible that if she has been running here truck for a period of time running that bad that she contributed to the premature deterioration of her muffler.
1) get a better mechanic.
2) stop going to Midas
3) get a Toyota

 

 

6 years @ 100 miles to 18 gallons of gas.

To quote pokergirl_lynn "LOL"

00blackblazer Do you really believe that she has been only getting 5 miles to the gallon for 6 years even through $3.50 a gallon gas prices last year?

How can anybody get help repairing their trucks if nothing makes any logical sense?

 

Umm... I am going to have to concur with Blasir on this one.

 

Actually if you would read it again, Blasir, she was getting 200 miles per tank back when it was originally repaired. So even with a 18 gallon tank, that works out to be slightly better than 11mpg. But if some bumkin mechanic was telling her everything was fine (not all of us are as gifted as you think you are), how is she to know any different? She is now only getting 100 miles per tank and wants to get it repaired. Can you help or are you going to continue to bicker?

Back on topic here. Anything else will be deleted.

 

Post from January 20,2007
"I have a 1995 Chevrolet Truck S10 Blazer 2WD
6 Cylinders 262 W 4.3L CPI .
I need some help. My truck was manufactured 02/95 so the computer is the older version. I have had it hooked to 3 computers and no codes display. They said it is casue my check engine light isn't on.
It runs rough, like to the point of filled fule tank went 89 miles and had to refule. It was on empty.
I have had new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, map sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel injectors (5 years ago) , O2 sensor Transmisson service (2 years ago). EGR valve (4 months ago).
It is sometimes hard to start, hit the gas pedal and I blow alot of carbon out exhaust. It sputters when I accelerate, and smelling alot of fuel when I start the truck and when driving. It stalls any time I slow down. I know that it is really hard to diagnose in a forum, I hope anyone can give a clue as to what I can get checked to help.
Thanks Alot,
Lynn "

GET A PROFESSIONAL TUNE UP ( DON'T GET MIDASIZED )

95 Blazer LS 2DR 4X4
343,772 miles as of 2/02/07
original engine & spider injector

My giftedness speaks for itself MR Administrator!

 

See, this is exactly why I do not like duplicate threads... Please help which I have locked and directed over to here.

Fact of the matter is we should be trying to help instead of poking holes in the description of problems. We aren't all mechanics and sometimes may not be able to give all of the information necessary.